Menswear can get pretty predictable after a while, and it’s hard for me to find “something new and different” for my hubby without being too avant-garde or “look-at-me”. So often, it’s the little details or subtle touches or even the fit that makes all the difference to menswear…so here is one shirt that stands on its own. I’ve never seen anything like it, but leave it to a vintage pattern to offer something amazing! I think this shirt rides the delicate balance of being fresh, vintage yet timeless, comfy and classy, with a toned down unusual-ness.
NOTIONS: I had the bias tape, thread, and interfacing used already on hand. The two buttons at the neckline came from hubby’s Grandmother’s collection so they are most probably vintage.
PATTERN: Butterick #7673, year 1956
TIME TO COMPLETE: This is by far the easiest and quickest shirt I’ve made for him to date. It was made in about 5 hours and finished on September 24, 2015.
THE INSIDES: All cleanly finished bias bound edges.
My hubby loves how comfy his shirt is in the weightless madras cotton. He also seems rather tickled at the shirt’s uniqueness. He does get thrown off just a little by the unusual way of closure but it is not hard in the least to slip on over the head. On my end, being the one that did the sewing, the biggest perk is that it is so easy and super quick to make (believe it or not), besides being incredibly fun to do something so out of the norm. Plus, (lovey-dovey gushing alert) I also own a matching ladies version (Butterick #7771) so I can sew my own “odd collar” blouse to match my man! Awww! Look for my version coming soon to my blog.
I would like to know if there is an official name or title for this style or type of collar. I think I remember seeing in an old catalog page or ad where this kind of shirt was called an “Italian-front” shirt. I have not yet re-found where I saw this so I feel badly that I am not justified for saying this. The envelope back identifies the other style of shirt in the pattern as a “wing collar” (unusual, too) but yet does not identify the other view that I made. For the ladies’ version, the envelope back summary calls it a “two button horizontal closing”, but there has to be a better name. If anyone else can help me out as to what an “Italian-front” shirt is, or any designation or story or such for my hubby’s shirt please let me know.
Peter at “Male Pattern Boldness” made a version of this same style shirt, only in long sleeves, from a different brand, and (surprisingly) in an earlier year, 1954. Now, as the ladies’ version of this style shirt is the latest dated version I’ve yet seen I can’t help but wonder – was it so popular for the men that the ladies demanded a version or was it planned by Butterick anyway?
Back to my man’s shirt, I do love the option of decorative top-stitching across the front. I’d like to try this on a solid version – after all, I do have a late 50’s sewing machine (kept in storage) with a dozen cams to make such fancy stitches.
However, hubby had an immediate liking for the feel and the plaid of the black and white madras when he found it in the fabric store. As is the unfortunate trend, the fabric he again picked for a shirt for himself was a seriously shortened length. Not even two yards! It was the last end of a bolt…barely enough for a shirt but just enough to make it a very challenging effort for me to finally make it work. This is why there is an unplanned-for (but rather invisible) seam down the center back of the collar and the shoulder panel – I had to piece those parts together just to get a match of the plaid or even fit them on the fabric at all. I’m hoping yet that someday making a shirt for him will be easier with at least one having enough (or more) fabric to spare (…feel the doubt in my tone).
The continuous lapped sleeves are wonderful – so much easier than the set-in kind. I wish more women’s patterns had this but then again we ladies generally want slightly more defined shoulders. There are side slits that go up to the level of his pants pockets so the shirt doesn’t have to come up when he wants to use his pockets. The sleeve hems are shortened up by several inches because the original length is about down to his elbows and that made his shirt only look frumpy (so we thought). We also wanted simplicity to let the plaid shine so I left off the optional chest pocket…it would be too much like a dentist’s shirt at that point. Besides the sleeve hems and the pocket, the rest of the pattern was 100% unchanged even for the fit as it was his size right out of the envelope. Hallelujah for easy! The hardest part was figuring out ahead of time how the collar goes together, but I just followed the directions and it came together with no problem. I’d like to congratulate the person who came up with this shirt’s design and its instructions.
Who knew sportswear could be so sophisticated, yet effortless to make?! What is so funny is the way we like to see if others notice something different when he’s wearing his shirt. For example, one day my dad complimented him on the shirt (knowing if he’s wearing a new shirt I probably made it) yet he looked at it better saying “Wait, what…something’s going on…where are the buttons…how do you put it on?” It’s so good to catch people off guard in such a good way, getting them to see and think differently about men’s clothes, a thing often taken for granted when it comes to style or change. Do you have a favorite “out-of-the-box” garment you really enjoyed finding and/or making?
(It looks like hubby is doing a Western-movie pose, much like, “Draw partner!”)