This is my attempt at a compromise between skirts and pants, technically ‘culottes’…with a vintage interpretation. I’m not exactly sure if this is the best look on me, especially with the mid-length wide bottoms, but I love it despite such misgivings because it is so comfy, different, and a creative use of a border design (if I do say so myself). This is by no means my first jumpsuit (see my others here and here), only my first faux-dress one!
My title alludes to the mystery vintage pattern I used to make my culottes jumpsuit. It was one of those many mail order patterns of the modern mid-century, but what was particularly bothering me was I could not date the design. I estimated that the design was early 60’s (or even late 50’s for a stretch) based on the hairstyle alone. Then, I shared the pattern on Instagram, and someone apparently knew enough based on the pattern number to date this to circa 1962. I still don’t know what company or newspaper this particular one came from, and if anyone can tip me off, please, do share! For now, though at least I know what decade to understand this…but whatever past time it is from, I like my new and unusual jumpsuit!
This is my submission for the “Sew Together for Summer” challenge of 2019, co-hosted by the blogger at “Sew Sarah Smith” with the Instagrammers Suzy at “sewing_in_spain” and Monika at “rocco.sienna”. This year’s theme is jumpsuits, dungarees, overalls, playsuits, and rompers…something one piece that has bifurcated bottoms. This garment certainly falls in this category! However, one is never enough of a good thing so this is just my first part for the challenge…part two will be a full 50’s playsuit, coming soon since the closing date is June 21!
FABRIC: a lightweight chambray cotton denim with a border embroidery stitched along the selvedge; facing in a lightweight plain cotton
PATTERN: a Mail Order pattern no.1495, ca. 1962
NOTIONS: I needed lots of thread and bias tape to finish the edges (chambray frays like crazy otherwise), with some interfacing and four waistband style hook-n-eyes
TIME TO COMPLETE: This took me about 10 to 12 hours to make and was finished on May 18, 2019.
TOTAL COST: just under $30
Whatever company this pattern was from, I am impressed. For such a simple, unassuming line drawing and such a basic looking pattern (unprinted tissue, simple instruction sheet) it was sneakily complex. The entire neckline and shoulder strap was one large and unusual shaped continuous piece that took copious amounts of pins, patience, and expertise to make correctly. The pleating needed precise marking at the cutting out stage and lots of ironing afterwards. Happily, I didn’t have to deal with much fitting issues – according to my tissue fit and preliminary measurements, this mystery mail order pattern ran one size smaller than what was listed, and I was correct. Other than having to adjust this jumpsuit’s slightly long torso, it turned out pretty much perfect for me as it was straight out of the envelope.
Split skirts have interesting construction, especially when they are pleated like this one. They also make for very large pattern pieces! The deep pleats that meet at both the center front and back hide the crotch seam and make it look like a skirt. I figured correctly that it made a better box pleat to sew the center fold-line together from the inside rather than just top-stitching the creases down next to one another, as the pattern instructed. Depending on how much wear this jumpsuit sees, I might come back later and embroider on some “arrow heads”, the proper (and beautiful) way to stabilize the ending point of a pleat to prevent or stop a hole from forming in the fabric.
I normally hate box pleats in skirt backs because they rarely stay looking nice between sitting and everything life calls for, but a good hot steam of the iron keeps them pretty good. The box pleating in the back was a lot more challenging than the front, needing much hand stitching, because of the center zipper running through the middle. You are basically trying to have a fold line end right where the edge of the zipper teeth are! I made sure to have a bit extra ease in the fit because if something like this fit snugly the back pleats over the zipper would not come together at all and only pull apart.
A border running above a hemline is rather conventional, so my favorite part of this jumpsuit is the way I have the embroidery border wrap around the neckline, too. It really balances out all the interest at the hemline, in my opinion, and brings just enough attention to what might be lost otherwise – the fabulous strap design which is the closing method. This jumpsuit has wrap-over-from-the-back straps, pretty much like overalls, that end as wide, cornered tab closings on the front of the bodice.
The pattern called for buttons to close the shoulder tabs, but they are the only thing holding up the 2 something yards of fabric in the skirt. Thus I opted for two strong sliding hook-and-eyes to close each strap…but with the back zipper I really could have just sewn the front tabs down permanently and not had them workable. Oh well! It’s always way cooler to have the tab closings actually work, and at least I know what garment to raid if I ever need some last minute notions for another project.
The open, eyelet-style embroidered border presented several creative challenges. First off, the dress’ neckline and straps needed a facing to complete the eyelet without making it obvious the openings in the embroidery designs were being filled in. The only answer to that was to make the facing a similar weight plain white cotton, and interface it in likewise cotton interfacing, as well. Secondly, after completely hand stitching the entire neckline and shoulder straps and tab closings, I was bracing myself to do more of that to the hem. However, the hemming was easy once I just figured on following along with what was already there. Then I was able to use a close zig-zag stitch (much like a loose button hole stitch) on my sewing machine and just follow along with the scalloping of the bottom to the border. I’m tricky like that! Hubby shook his head at me like I was cheating out of doing the hem right – but hey…I’ll save myself both time and bodily misery where I legitimately can.
Speaking of misery, in order to give my culotte jumpsuit a ‘test run’, I wore them over to frolic and play in my parents’ backyard (the backdrop for our pictures). Yup, my new jumpsuit is certainly great for jungle gym climbing, puppy dog chasing, and general child level play! However, my ‘test run’ sure caused me so much achy arms and tired legs for the next several days afterwards! I suppose I need more play clothes like this if only to have a reason to exercise while having fun like I did that day.