For anyone who follows the traditions of India, October often ends up being a celebratory month in which the festival of Navratri ends and Diwali begins. Navratri, meaning ‘nine nights’, is one of the most popular and widely celebrated Hindu festivals in many parts of India and lasted September 26 to October 5 this year. Diwali, the “Festival of Lights” associated with both the principal Goddess Lakshmi as well as the end of the Indian fiscal year, begins October 24 in 2022 and is 5 days of family, food, fireworks, colored sand art, special candles and lamps.
I always celebrate these occasions in spirit where I am, far away from India. Nevertheless, I’ve been having a hard time getting back into anything after having a bad time of catching Covid at the end of August. However, choosing a traditional “buti” flower block print cotton, I found a project both easy to make and wear which is just the pick me up I needed to reignite my spirit, get back into sewing again, and launch me into the mood for this month’s Indian festivities. As I am slow to think and accomplish much currently, I was so happy earlier this month to finish sewing an “Angrakha” in time to honor the theme colors of the last two days for Navratri. The peacock green on my dress commemorates day 8 and the bright pink of day 9 is from my dupatta shawl, which was bought from the Devon Ave. Indian district in Chicago! This garment is supremely comfortable, colorful, and fun, but also is the perfect ethnic item to wear for these celebrations!
FABRIC: an all-cotton hand-stamped block print direct from India through “Fibers to Fabric” shop on Etsy
PATTERN: McCall’s #6428, year 1978, from my personal pattern stash
NOTIONS NEEDED: lots of thread, some ethnic Indian loop trimming from a New Delhi artisan sourcing shop “Cat Fluff” on Etsy, and some random items on hand to make the Angrakha’s tasseled tie ends
TIME TO COMPLETE: This was sewn in about 10 hours and finished on September 27, 2022
THE INSIDES: cleanly zig-zag stitched over the edge in several layers to imitate serging (overlocking)
TOTAL COST: I bought 4 yards of this material on a seasonal clearance sale and together with the trimming my total cost comes to just over $20.
In brief, an angrakha is a double-breasted, wrapped, long sleeve outer robe that is asymmetrically tied closed at the left side of the high waistline and traditionally paired with loose Indian trousers. The earliest mention of this word specifically can be traced back to the 16th century! An angrakha was historically worn by men of Rajasthan (state in northern India) either as a soldier’s robe, when there was a quilted inner panel under the double-breasted chest, or as a court robe for royalty when made of the best silk brocade with rich trimmings. By the 19th century, it had evolved to be a garment made of sensible cottons, but now today it is also worn in public by men and women alike of varying ethnographic backgrounds and locations. It even has progressed into varying lengths – long as a special occasion dress, short as a daily wear tunic, or mid-length as a multi-purpose robe or fancy suit (when there are matching trousers and dupatta shawl).
The angrakha is supposedly derived from traditional outfits of Rajasthan’s neighboring state of Gujarat and can be seen in some of their Garba or Dandiya performances for Navratri. Gujarat is, after all, the only state that erupts into a nine-night dance festival, one of the longest in the world! Each night of Navratri, all over the state, in villages and cities alike, people gather in open spaces to celebrate their feminine divinity. Oh, how I wish I was there to experience that for myself…just picture the blaze of color, energy, and excitement such an event must be!
The literal meaning of the word “Angrakha” is ‘something that protects your body’, and thus I searched (and obviously found) a robe pattern from which to base my make off of. A modern robe still embodies the very definition of this Indian ethnic garment and – just like an angrakha – is a layer that is not worn alone but over a full set of clothes underneath. I serendipitously found the perfect source in a vintage pattern from on hand! It is a nighttime set pattern, but robes made of the right fabric can be definitely appropriate for wearing outside the confines of the home. I remembered how the fashion of the 1970s had revisited many different historical influences and the empire waist, full skirt, minimal seams, and wrapped closure was everything I needed for a modern yet traditional interpretation of an angrakha.
I adapted just a few things to the pattern to both make it fit me better and be more ethnically an angrakha. The pattern I had was a medium (the sizing was in general increments and not precise numbers) so it was much bigger than my measurements. The sleeve length was originally very long and I had to fold up the pattern tissue to the exact length needed because I was including the full selvedge edge along the cuffs. The main body was very wide and I folded out an inch out of each bodice piece, taking out a total of 4 inches. Even still the main body turned out too generous, and not the proper angrakha silhouette. Just reshaping the underarm seam into a right angle, rather than a soft curve, worked wonders to bring in some shapeliness to the bodice and provide all the reach room I needed. To continue the reshaping, I also straightened out the sleeves into stovepipe style rather than the pattern’s given bell sleeves. The most traditional garments of any culture are often composed of very basic, simple shapes and so it seemed proper to turn the design lines for this angrakha into something very angular and geometric.
An integral part to the angrakha is the tasseled tie closure for the asymmetric wrapping. As I said above, I meant to channel modern India’s take on a historically ethnic style so I deviated from the traditional double tied closure. Things were kept simple for my angrakha with one sole tie. I went really inventive by coming up with something suitable and used a turquoise green colored shoelace that I happened to find in my notions stash. Then I sewed down two matching colored cotton tassels (leftover from this tunic project, posted here) over the ends. A shoelace string is much sturdier than any ribbon or cording I had been considering anyway! I stitched thread chain loops over the shoelace tie at both ends of the waistline where it needed to be connected. Yet, my thread loops do not catch the ties, which run under the loops so the waistline can adjust to whatever feels comfortable for the day. With the tassels at each end, the tie however cannot come out of the thread loops, providing assurance that it will not get lost but is staying put.
I was not doing an overall elasticized waist like the pattern called for, but I was making the bodice smoothly tailored with only the skirt portion gathered. Thus, I had to add a few darts in the bodice – under the bust for the front panels and under the shoulders for the back panels. The waistline shape was trimmed to be more like a historical men’s angrakha, where the front waistline lands at a higher true empire height while the back waistline dips lower to hit just above the true waistline. I did not line this robe, or used any facings, but I just used the selvedge border for all hems and simply turned in the neckline edge under the loopy Indian trimming. The bodice panels with the long cut-on sleeves took just over a yard, which left me with the 3 yards of fabric for the skirt portion. Four whole yards of fabric was just enough to work for this project!
As I expounded upon in this post of mine about the making of a Rajput Sherwani coat, dyeing and block printing traditions have always been rich throughout the Indian states of Rajasthan, Gujarat, and Sindh. Their textiles had been exported to places as far away as Egypt and Africa centuries before the British control there popularized the exporting of their chintz, block prints, paisley shawls, and silks to England, America, and the Dutch colonies. The fabric I chose is a classic, buttery, whispery soft Indian cotton. The predominant dye color to my chosen print is also in the background. In modern times, I tend to see this color called turquoise. This color can be seen as a blue or a green depending on the person, so I find this label for such a shade as too generalized and confusing. To India, the natural (often botanical dyes) dyes that are often used turn this shade greener toned than anything else, and this way blues are easier to clearly identify. This block print matches with the Pantone shade of “Blue Grass”, but I see it in person, in indoor light, as the traditional “peacock green”. It is complimented with shades of true Indigo (Pantone “Sapphire”) for the print, as well as “Dusty Lavender” in the border – all my favorite colors!
The overall print, called the ‘field’ area, is filled up of ‘buti’, tiny stylized almond shaped floral motifs carved in wood for stamping purposes. ‘Buti’ is an Indian Marathi word that means ‘something hidden or kept hidden’ and the best part of these stylized florals is reading secrets within the creatively rendered botanical representation. Here, the fabric looks to me to show a milk thistle plant, known in Hindi as “doodh patra”. It has long been popular in India as a flowering herb that provides therapeutic properties as well as a multi-purpose oil (extracted from the seeds). The portrayal of this plant is for me a subtle nod to the angrakha’s late medieval origins – the thistle was a favorite decorative and symbolical element of manuscript illuminations, tapestries, and brocades of the olden times.
However, on a practical level, such a print shows the Gujarat influence to my interpretation of an angrakha, as that is the Indian tradition that I most closely associate with through our Indian friends. I know I am biased, but I will insist that Gujarat has the superiority when it comes to cotton production, embroidery, and tie dyeing. Yet, I know Rajasthan (particularly the capitol city of Jaipur) is tied to the history of the floral motif block print. I love the way that my angrakha combines both state’s textile histories into one fantastic garment that has a richly interesting history all on its own.
I am thrilled to have a new type of Indian clothing to wear as part of my ongoing efforts to participate in the culture of India through their wonderful festivities. This angrakha is my new favorite wardrobe item so I have not been shy from wearing it out to eat, to do errands, and more! I think it is so important for respectful cultural representation to be something seen outside of limited ethnic circles so that the public can that have a chance to see, respect, and learn. India has such an enthralling history with a depth which can be intimidating to a newcomer, but I hope coming across someone like me can become a moment of enlightenment for others. I love sharing all things related to my sewing, especially history and culture! For this angrakha, its bold but attractive combo of colors in a relatable wrap-on style seemed to really bring out the questions and comments from people I came in contact with.
Most people never understand what is the clothing of the people of India beyond a stereotypical tunic, trousers, or sari…but there is so much more variety than that! It would be a great honor if my blog could be the source for opening any reader’s mind to just some of the interesting nuances to what the residents of India actually do wear and how it is beautifully tied to their culture, their heritage, their self-expression, and their talents. I adamantly believe the world would indeed be a dull place if it wasn’t for the flourish of color and wondrous handiwork that the fashions of India bring to the globe.
Here’s a wish for a peaceful, renewing, and happy Navratri festival!