Vintage styles are my preferred ‘look’, even for a comfy everyday outfit, but yet I do enjoy getting out of my comfort zone to sew up boldly individual fashions for myself in the styles of today. I want to make sure I am in touch with today sufficiently to still enjoy modern designs here and there. After all, although I do not follow ‘fads’, sometimes I can’t decide what decade I want to wear for the day and just want something that might remotely “fit in” for the 21st century! Burda Style patterns are my preferred resource for my modern sewing.
This year I might just have a dress-down Mother’s Day in my newest Burda Style creation! It is such a bright and fun version of the American favorite – the t-shirt dress – made in deluxe rayon jersey. This is perfect for these quarantine times when I want to be put together without a lot of effort but still just as comfy as if I was still wearing pajamas.
FABRIC: 100% rayon jersey knit, partially lined in poly power mesh
NOTIONS: I just needed lots of thread and a small bit on interfacing.
TIME TO COMPLETE: This was finished on May 6, 2020 and took me about 8 to 10 hours to make.
TOTAL COST: I have no idea when or where or how long I’ve had this fabric, so let’s count this as a stash-busting winner and completely free, shall we?!
I have had my eye on this dress pattern ever since it came out, but had not yet come up with a way to highlight the fantastic seaming until now. It was really a sudden revelation kind of idea. You see, I have been going through my fabric and notions stash lately – taking account of what I have, what I might run low on, what I should put away, and what I will tackle. All this is because of Covid-19 shortages of sewing supplies and the resulting impossibilities to shop in stores in person, but also a bit of “spring cleaning” is in my blood. I am being as smart, sensible, and thrifty as I can lately!
So, in continual process of that organizational effort, I ran across this bright fuchsia rayon jersey and the navy striped rayon jersey both paired up together on the same bolt. I didn’t realize they had been sitting out of my storage bins for so long. Then, I suddenly thought of this Burda pattern, long forgotten in the back burner to my mind. These two fabrics would be an unusual, experimental, and certainly eye-catching combo! Never one to shy away from a risky project, as you can see, I just went with it. Yes, I need crazy sewing projects to entertain me right now.
I do think this dress turned out quite well, much better than I expected. However, I am not totally won over to a t-shirt dress, even when it’s this good. I suppose I just need some time for this project to grow on me. The jersey knit is so super soft and slinky – I am not used to how luxurious it feels. Something this lightweight and weightless on my skin makes me forget what I have on…and that feels kinda wrong to a girl like me totally used to vintage fashions like the 1920s, 50’s, or even 40’s that demand a certain silhouette with the corresponding lingerie and dress padding for shaping that said silhouette.
To help me feel better about wearing this t-shirt dress and also use up my extra fabric, I did take some extra steps to make this both opaque and easier to sew. I doubled up on the layers of all the dress pieces which have the fuchsia knit. Rayon jersey is a super fine material and harder to sew than any silk, in my opinion. It so very easily catches on even a small fray of my fingernails. My first wearing of the dress created a few new snags. This is just going to have to be part of the dress, but at least I didn’t mess up the fabric while sewing it. One layer of jersey is quite sheer and hard to sew without creating holes (yes, even with a ball point needle). Two layers of rayon jersey knit makes for a heavier weight dress but is much more manageable to turn into a design, more opaque to wear, and easier to place through my sewing machine.
I lined the navy striped knit panels in a nude colored power mesh. Doubling up on this contrast fabric would only make the second ghost layer of stripes underneath appear weird. The power mesh does an awesome job at helping to shape the most important, detailed sections – the bodice front and the left skirt flare. There is an interesting panel under the top half of the side skirt flare to keep the skirt in its slim shape and prevent the pleated section from getting too overwhelming. I really like the lining panel especially because it keeps the skirt from wrapping into between my legs (which can happen with any knit skirt which is full).
There is one piece that is not like the others, though. The left waist panel I heavily supported with iron-on interfacing to keep all those gathers in check to the seams above and below it! Luckily, this was just a small pattern piece because interfacing is almost impossible to come by today, right?! However, I am very glad I chose to make this one piece stable. Doing so helps define the design. I am not exactly sure if a curved corner was what I was supposed to do instead of my very angled finishing but at least it matched up precisely to the other fuchsia skirt section over the center front (not an easy feat here!). I rather like the angled corners because they match with the lines of the stripes.
The pros and the cons of sewing this were about equal on the scales, I suppose. Firstly, don’t forget – this was originally drafted in tall women’s sizing! On the pattern tracing, I had to take out a horizontal swatch of two inches through the bust to make this work for me, but the jersey knit pulls the whole dress down with its weight so I could have taken out more still. I did trace out the tall woman’s equivalent to my “normal” Burda size but ended up taking it in along the side seams by an inch or so because of the jersey knit super stretch as well. The dress length I chose was originally in between the longest length option and the ‘short’ knee length option. Again, the knit stretches and makes the dress longer than was expected, but I rather like the way it swishes around when I walk, so the length it is will be staying. I left out the back zipper and opted for no closures as the knit is so stretchy. There is no need for any hemming to the sleeves and the bottom skirt because this kind of knit does not fray. Thus, in summary, choosing a knit for this design made certain parts easy (no zipper, no hemming) and other parts harder than necessary (cutting double pieces, adjusting the sizing). You win some, you lose some, but as long as I have something so cute and wearable for my efforts my time was worth it.
The list of things I want to find time to make is already quite long and Burda Style just keeps coming out with super tempting releases lately to add to my list of sewing projects. Their vintage reprints are especially enticing and in almost every issue recently. I’m not complaining, but it does present a bit of a problem. Anybody out there have ideas for an easy way to keep track of what patterns are in individual sewing magazines? I have enough Burda magazines now that I need to figure out a way to organize the designs in them which I intend to sew. I wish it was as easy to file them by garment category as it is my individual patterns in envelopes! Any insight would be helpful. In the meantime, I’ll just get back to my crazy quarantine sewing and cooped up cleaning efforts. I may even do some of that in this post’s dress. We’ll see.