I for one cannot fathom the popular princess craze for little girls…pink and sparkles, oh my! Nevertheless, as much as I despise the whole commercialism of it, I’ll sheepishly admit I know I have some inner princess to me. I must have – why else to I keep going for long full, swishy skirts, love to dress up, and make and wear fancy clothes even when there is really no event to wear them to? I even remember as an early teen, I made myself this skirt for my birthday…it was ankle length, full, with a sheer small floral cotton over a darker blue lining and I sewed ribbons to hold the fullness back like a bustle. I felt like Cinderella in my head…oh the things I’ve been happy making and wearing for myself!!! I think this is (finally) a classy and adult version of princess dressing for me.
As this season is Prom time and also officially “National Princess Week”, I thought I would post about my newest, formal, princess inspired creation. My outfit is both vintage and modern inspired, in varying tones of my favorite color purple, and pretty much made with no pattern and no occasion to wear it to. I just made it because I wanted to, and it made me happy to make something that I half-envisioned wearing in a dream. Man, where’s my fairy Godmother to magic up a ball for me? Granted I’ve already found (and married) my “Prince Charming”.
Speaking of hubby, he finds it funny that “National Princess Week” comes just before “National BBQ Week”. He thinks maybe the two weeks can coincide with a “BBQ princess picnic” – and all I can reply to this is an eye roll and a mental picture of a recipe for a dress disaster. What do you think?
FABRICS: a purple poly crepe and blue navy chiffon for the skirt with a magenta pink lace and matching buff satin (leftover from making this hat) for the top. All fabrics were bought at my local JoAnn’s Fabrics store from their special occasion collection.
NOTIONS: I only used what was on hand, but this didn’t require much – specialty colored waistband elastic in navy (leftover from this past skirt project), thread, and hook-and-eyes.
TIME TO COMPLETE: My outfit was finished on August 8, 2016. The lace top was made in 2 or 3 hours while the skirt took me about 5 hours.
THE INSIDES: Nice! The way my skirt fabrics were cut the selvedge edges are along the hem and waist – the waist is covered with elastic while the hems are turned under into tiny ¼ inch hems. As the side seams of the sheer and crepe layers are separate, they are French finished. The top is bias bound.
TOTAL COST: I really don’t remember exactly how much I spent, even though I recently bought it. Perhaps I really don’t want to count costs for this one, but it probably wasn’t over $40…
I keep seeing this combo of crop top and full, long skirt popping up everywhere – in some e-mails from Mood Fabrics, in clothes and department store catalogs, in the front window of local formal/bridal shops, and in pattern re-leases. It seems as if I started seeing such a trend when this past New Year’s celebration fashions were coming out and it has extended into and through the current Prom/school dance season. I do like the idea of having an easy to wear and/or make option to traditional dresses, especially when it is no less ‘dressy’! The basic design idea is really simple, too – hey, most ladies have ‘done’ skirts and tops at a regular non-dressy setting – and more body types can fit into a two-piece. With a such a divided formal set, any little details, every variance of material, and fit differences all can be mixed and matched to have every set different and personalized to each body. Sorry to ‘sell’ this trend, I just think it is awesome!
When making my own set, I found that the tops need very little fabric while the skirts are fabric hogs (obviously). I assume this is why so many of the crop tops to such two-piece formal sets are made of a more stunning fabric than the skirt – you can even out the scales when you pick an expensive material but can make something out of only half a yard of it! Not that the bottom half isn’t worth it either. Maybe a de-luxe taffeta skirt might look awesome on the right body/person/with the right color but then you’d need a basic, simple top. I was tempted to go for the stiffer taffeta skirt-basic top combo, but the inner princess in me called for a swishy bottom. A lovely lace in the fabric store won me over, too, to the idea.
Very easily do I tend to the color purple…in all its shades. I still have it in this outfit, it’s just more disguised! The inner, lining layer of my skirt is purple, yes, but the sheer, true-blue navy over that combines to make a lovely and new color that changes up my fascination. (My Anne Klein kitten heels match the over-layer blue, by the way.) Purple is after all an intermediary between blue and red – so the navy sheer and bright pink are the opposite ends of the spectrum for my lining. Purple is associated with royalty, making this even more of a princess-y outfit. Did you know that “in fact, Queen Elizabeth I forbad anyone except close members of the royal family to wear it. Purple’s elite status stems from the rarity and cost of the dye originally used to produce it” says ‘LiveScience’. Here’s your history nugget for the day…and a reason to buy more purple along with me!
So many patterns for these long full formal skirts called for about 3 yards of fabric. As I was buying double fabric for my skirt, I did not want to buy or deal with that much fabric. After all, I was trying to make an idea in my head and sewing it for myself…so why should I confine myself to a pattern at all? I bought two yards of my skirt fabric and figured things out from there. I have long been admiring 60’s and 50’s full, pleated skirts that over emphasize the hips and make the waist high and skinny. Check out my Pinterest boards for some of my inspiration both modern and vintage. Then, I just used mathematics to make my skirt. My skirt fabrics were cut on the fold created when the selvedges were lined up (laid out), so my skirt is 30 inches long by four total yards width around. I know what my waist is and I knew the length of the fabric I had to work with, thus the pleats were figured out the calculating way.
Double pleats on top of pleats? Yes! I started with deep, sewn-in tucks at the line of the inner fold of the first pair of center pleats, both front and back. These sewn-in tucks control the fullness of the skirt, keeping in place the under layer of pleats in place so the second layer of pleats can lay right. You can only see the sewn in pleats when I swirl and my skirt becomes as full as it can be, like in the picture above.
These double pleats of course make the skirt quite heavy so I chose a decorative elastic waistband to hug my middle tightly. My problem was how to get it on easily? I made my skirt have a front closure opening through the middle of the pleats. It closes with a line of three large hook-and-eyes hidden under the fold edge. I like to add a brooch or decorative pin over the closure just because it makes the waistband look like a belt, and I do have so many of those sorts of add on pretties. However, the waist front is also fine without it too, and I’m so glad my hand-sewing is invisible. Sewing through all the layers – two thicknesses of elastic with all the fabric layers doubled – was tough on my hands. I was poked quite well a good number of times, as well. Yup, this was another project I gave blood for…
Now the top was loosely cut off of Simplicity’s pattern. I choose the size larger than what I needed, on purpose. I wanted a wide cropped top to widen my shoulders and emphasize the high waist of my skirt. Then the hem was cut along the design of the lace a few inches above the waist. Matching solid poly was cut into bias binding to finish all the edges – inner side and shoulder seams, neckline, and armholes. Easy! The only ‘fault’ to the top is that it is airy thin and light, moving around somewhat off of my shoulders sometimes, plus I have to be careful of what I brush against because of the open lace. It’s just too pretty to find any real problem. Underneath I’m merely wearing a tube top, but if I ever want a full coverage option, I’ll sew up a second top in a nude or matching pink color.
Our photo shoot location is at someplace called Tower Grove Park, characterized as “the largest and best preserved 19th-century Gardenesque style city park in the United States”. It is one of the landmarks to see in our town, as it has historical importance together with lots of spectacular sights (architecturally and in regards to nature). Among those sights are all the elaborate Victorian pavilions and houses, two of which we captured as the background for my formal set. For some reason I see Victorian architecture as grandiose, somewhat brooding, mysterious, and flaunting in-your-face elegance. Those same adjectives can also apply to many of the castles and palaces that many princesses find themselves in…
Have you had a similar project where you made something full-blown fancy, just because you had an idea or wanted to make something specific to wear (occasion or not)? Do you also find it hard (like me) to have more occasions to dress up? So many events which used to be fancy are becoming so casual nowadays. However, there is “National Princess Week” to give us girls of all ages a semi-legitimate excuse to ‘go all out’ the way that pleases your inner nobility.