This post is a week later than I intended it to be, but for a girl like myself with a rich Irish heritage on both sides of my family, seven days after St. Patrick’s day isn’t bad for celebrating either. Any and every day is good for reveling in one’s heritage! I always find it so perfect that the holiday for wearing green comes around for us just as the season of spring does, as well. Verdant hues are the newest cloak being worn by nature, as well. Spring also means school break, however, and as a mom it is always such a challenge to accomplish anything I had previously intended during our son’s time off at home.
Thus, finally, I’m so excited to be sharing another amazing Agent Carter recreation unlike all the rest I have finished. It is secretly a one-piece jumpsuit – surprise! By choosing two different colors and types of material for the top and bottom half I enjoy the appearance of separates. Yet, my top stays perfectly “tucked in” and my high-waisted, wide-legged 40’s style trousers stay up in place…because it is an easy-to-dress-in, all one garment kind of jumpsuit! I still faithfully recreated Agent Peggy Carter’s outfit from Season Two, episode 3 ‘Better Angels’, of the 2016 television series.
I laugh in enjoyment over the sneaky deception of the way I made my version. As I make mention of in my title, I feel this jumpsuit version is so very suited to Peggy’s smart but sensible personality. It is also a bit deceptive in plain sight just like so much of her life as an agent of the S.S.R. (or should I just say S.H.I.E.L.D., right). Also, it is has a bright and cheerful “Leprechaun” green which, between the versatile fabrics I used that are perfect for cooler in-between temperatures, makes this my favorite classy-but-casual vintage inspired outfit for spring (or fall, too, of course). The best part is the fact I used a modern (therefore relatively easily available) sewing pattern as my verbatim source for this outfit. Leave it to Peggy Carter to keep inspiring me to sew myself clothes that become such wardrobe winners which I feel great wearing.
FABRIC: the top blouse half is a Kona brand all-cotton in “Leprechaun” color; the bottom trousers are a heathered grey brushed suiting bought here from Fashion Fabrics Club, in a 63% Rayon 16% Viscose 12% Linen 8% Silk 1% Lycra blend; the lining for the bodice was also used for the side seam pants pockets and that is a basic lightweight polyester in a dark green color.
PATTERN: Butterick #6320, year 2016
NOTIONS NEEDED: I needed lots of thread, interfacing, one long 22” invisible zipper for the center back closing, and I used one vintage dark green Bakelite buckle for the belt.
THE INSIDES: all nicely finished in bias tape for the trouser half, otherwise all other raw edges are invisible due to the bodice lining.
TIME TO COMPLETE: This jumpsuit felt time consuming. After over 30 hours put in, it was finished in March 2020.
TOTAL COST: The trouser fabric alone cost me $35 for two yards, and the bodice was $7 for one yard. The lining was on hand leftover from another project years back so I’m counting that and the buckle from my stash as free. My total cost with the other notions is $50.
Now, one really never gets to see my project’s inspiration outfit on Agent Carter for very long in the “Better Angels” episode, and even then, it is mostly only her green blouse that we see in detail. That’s okay. The trousers are basic 40’s era suiting bottoms and the blouse carries the brunt of the meticulous design lines, after all. Peggy’s green top had these shoulder panels which wrapped from the back to the front where they create a wide, curved sweetheart neckline before they end under the armpit. The rest of the center front to the blouse has a dipped neckline which gathers into the bottom of the shoulder plackets to create bust fullness.
All of these details were already there on Butterick #6320 pattern – yay! The most obvious variance is having a plain, flat front with the lack of a buttoned front opening, such as what Agent Carter’s original blouse had. I like this pattern’s smooth front better, just the same as I chose puffed sleeves over plain sleeves with a hem notch as Peggy’s original had. I recreated those sleeves on this other Season Two blouse (posted here). Also, these trousers are a comfy, pleated front while Peggy’s version had a smooth, fitted front. I have made several smooth front 40’s pants for myself already anyway (see here and here). For as much as I try to ‘copy’ Peggy’s outfits, I always make sure to stay true to my personal wearing preferences so I can have my Agent Carter garments be everyday clothes and not just cosplay costumes. Also, I like to honor the ingenuity of the designer, in this case “Gigi” Ottobre-Melton, by not making an exact copy.
From the soft shine of the original blouse on Agent Carter, I assume it was silk. I cannot tell what material her trousers were but they seem to be a thick rayon suiting to me. My chosen fabrics are more basic and casual, albeit very nice. Kona cotton is synonymous for quality, especially being a Robert Kaufman product. It is thick but soft, durable with minimal shrinkage, and the colors don’t bleed (important as I am making a dual color, two material jumpsuit). I always appreciate the fact Kona cotton certifies that no harmful chemicals were used in its production, processing or finishing.
I felt it was important that my trouser fabric be something a lot more textured than the blouse to imitate the appearance of two separate items. The material I chose is a blend of most of all my favorite materials (rayon, linen, and silk) in a very unusual way – a twill with a flannel finish. Nevertheless, it has a wonderful drape, great medium weight, and a finish which has it perfect for a menswear-inspired suiting look.
The brushed finish makes this a slightly bit itchy (but I wear pants liners underneath to counter that) and the linen in it makes this wrinkle some, too. However, the blend it is in also has the pants portion to this jumpsuit be much more breathable and multi-seasonal than one would expect by the look and feel of it. I am happily surprised by the success of this jumpsuit project. The way I was combining two such opposite fabrics had me worried from the outset, as did the fact I had spent a decent sum of money on the supplies in the first place. The bodice was a beast to sew (more on this in a minute). This had to turn out or I would have been devastated.
I found the ‘bust-waist-hips’ sizing of this pattern to be spot on, yet the fit and proportions were off. The way this is drafted on paper, the pattern is only made for tall ladies. I do not consider myself truly petite at about 5’3” in height, and my torso length (from the back of my neck to high waist) is a common 15” (plus some). As it was, the bodice was far too long, as were the trousers. The pattern called for a 2-something inch hem…I had 10 inches in excess to hem these trousers on the long side for me (I have to wear heels in this jumpsuit). I had to bring in the shoulders by about 2” to pick up the bodice so that the underbust seam rests where it should be landing.
This pattern will NEED some adapting for most anyone who tries out this design, from my experience. It is especially important to learn this from the outset at the pattern stage as the complex and fully lined bodice doesn’t give much room for adapting after it is completed. Take into account that the curved shoulder panels have to be redrawn at the joining seam if you also need to take this design in to fit if you choose to sew this for yourself, too. Please do not let my warning dissuade you from trying this pattern – I highly recommend it. I love the many options it offers with the variety of sleeves and the option of a skirt bottom.
The bodice was extremely fiddly and tricky and takes some slow, meticulous going to sew it right. I have seen some sewists who have made this pattern for themselves skip some details as well as the lining, but I recommend going all the way for this fabulous design. Yes, interfacing the entire bodice seems like overkill, but I did it anyway. Now that my jumpsuit is finished, I think it does help the bodice become a stable ‘anchor’ to the pants below and not be pulled down by that much fabric. Yes, it looks like there are way too many markings needing to be made to the fabric at the cutting out stage. As a stickler for doing things right from the outset, I sucked it up and copied all of the balance marks, squares, triangles, and circles. They all end up being extremely necessary and very helpful towards making construction much less confusing. Even still, the gathering around the curved shoulder placket above the bustline was the trickiest part of all to perfect. Luckily, the smooth inner lining (completely different pattern pieces from the exterior front top) help to bring the bodice together and right the seam allowances.
Before I added the lining, I thought the bodice looked messy and was being pulled too much by the attached trousers. Sure, I ironed the top along the way, clipping where necessary and pushing the seam allowances the right direction. Once the lining was in, I had matched the lines of both the lining bodice and exterior bodice so I could hand tack them together ‘in the ditch’ of the seams. My doing this interior seam matching was over and above what the instructions told me to do, but worth it. After all, it was only then that the bodice was suddenly substantial enough to hold the weight of the 2 something yards of attached pants and therefore not have unreasonable wrinkles. All the ‘good side’ edges have no visible stitching because I had stitched the seam allowance edges for the neckline to the lining as further hand finishing over and above what was called for. I love the chic and professional appearance my extra efforts give, even though it is not clearly noticeable until up close…which nowadays, social distancing prevents that! The lining, though a bother to cut and sew (besides being unseen), completely makes this jumpsuit work out.
My self-fabric belt is the “cherry-on-the-top” to the two-piece deception of this jumpsuit. This was something not originally part of the pattern but something I added. However, it is not your normal belt on account of the center back zipper closing. I slid my vintage belt buckle over the belt strip and centered it between the two ends. Then the center of the belt with the buckle was lightly hand tacked to the center front of the jumpsuit’s waistline. I further attached the belt to the side seams of the jumpsuit. This was done out of convenience for both dressing and bathroom visits. Nobody wants to pick up something off of a public bathroom floor! Also, I had no plans on wearing this outfit without the belt at all. Two oversized snap help the loose belt ends lap closed over one another across the back once the back zipper is closed. I am always justly wary of having anything Bakelite – normally buttons, but here it’s the buckle – going through a washing machine cycle so I now realize I will either have to clip away the threads that tack down the belt or hand wash this jumpsuit. Oh well. The finished project here makes up for any bother needed to take care of it along the way.
This month’s green outfit of mine not only celebrates the equinox and St. Patrick’s Day, but also has a subtle nod to Women’s History Month. This outfit honors the strong ladies who have influenced my life. Agent Carter has inspired my fashion style, my sewing preferences, and my personal confidence. Yet, no vintage outfit of mine is ever complete without something of my grandmother’s – whether it be her earrings, gloves, scarves, or such accessories I have inherited. My Grandma is so sorely missed these past four plus years. She was the strongest, bravest, most resourceful, intelligent, caring, compassionate, and beautiful woman I could ever aspire to be. It is her gold “Lady Elgin” 1940s watch which is the item I am never without for every Agent Carter outfit of mine. Peggy Carter was never without her Nana’s watch in the first half of Season 1’s show…and I guarantee you my watch will not have the same sad fate as her’s did.
I think it is a fantastic tradition for women to honor the previous generation’s women though continuing to wear (albeit gently) their heirlooms. I like the keep some familial treasures stored away, yes indeed. However, there are others which I feel deserve to be enjoyed and thus have a renewed appreciation through the connection they carry. You know, many people have said I look like my Grandmother when she was young…but I also have people I don’t personally know tell me I look like Agent Carter on many occasions. What a happy connection this is as well as the best compliments I could ever hope to receive! I know my Grandmother would want me to be as proud of myself as she was of me. I can only hope and try to be as amazing a woman as she. If I can sneak in a little Agent Carter reference by just doing my own vintage style along the way, too, well…I am blessed. It must be the lucky Irish in me.