When there are frigid temperatures, and forecasts of ice, snow, and dreary skies, part of me cannot help but mentally travel to the opposite clime…somewhere warm and sunny, where living is relaxed and duties are a thing forgotten (for the time being at least)! Flamingos can be found at such tropical getaways, and imagery of their one-legged standing silhouette is often associated with resort lounging anyways.
This year, rather than just imagining, hubby and I are actually off at a sunny Florida beach for the moment. Thus, now is the perfect time for me to share my 1940s outfit I made inspired by the “devil in pink” himself, Bernard, pet of the master of carefree lounging himself, Marvel’s inventor extraordinaire Howard Stark. (Watch this clip for a small minute of understanding!) Bernard the flamingo was the loud and hard-to-handle bane of Howard’s butler, Mr. Jarvis, to the humorous amazement to the two ladies Agent Peggy Carter and Mrs. Ana Jarvis in Season Two of the Marvel TV series. This inspiration was the perfect opportunity to channel my love of vintage, Agent Carter, and casual yet nice separates all into one handmade outfit.
Thinking of a warmer climate basked in sunshine, my post WWII blouse has brass sun buttons and golden flamingos printed on a rich pink rayon. My trousers are a multi-climate wool blend twill in practical khaki tan with post-war style hem cuffs for a masculine touch. My accessories are a classic straw fedora (just like what Agent Carter had), pink patent oxford-style shoes, vintage pink pearl earrings, and an old 40’s original tooled leather box purse, the kind that were popular tourist souvenirs brought back to the states for sweethearts. I couldn’t be happier with the comfort, chic, and practical usefulness of this set! It’s a girly pink overload (with the shoes, too) in a restrained and professional way coming straight from the past.
FABRIC: Blouse – a 100% rayon challis; Pants – a wool blend twill in a medium weight thickness
PATTERN: Simplicity #8243, a reprint of an original year 1948 pattern #2337, for the blouse and a vintage original Simplicity #4528, year 1943, for the trousers (used before to make these denim pants)
NOTIONS: I used everything from on hand – bias tapes, cotton scraps, thread, and vintage notions. My pants have an old vintage metal zipper in the side, and my blouse’s amazing sun-image buttons come from hubby’s Grandma’s stash.
TIME TO COMPLETE: The blouse and the pants came together quickly – about 5 to 7 hours to make each. The blouse and the pants were finished in June of 2017.
THE INSIDES: all cleanly bias bound
TOTAL COST: The flamingo rayon was bought in early spring 2017 at JoAnn’s fabric store, while the fabric for the pants was bought at a rummage/resale store for only $2 for 2 yards. I don’t clearly remember the total but I think the blouse and pants together might have been about $10…pretty good, right?!
I had been saving the khaki fabric to make something that would be a staple piece which would see much wearing – weather that would be a 1940s Eisenhower jacket, vintage trousers, or a 1930s skirt, I wasn’t sure. The flamingo fabric was a sudden, spur-of-the-moment purchase – one of those things that when you first lay eyes on it, it screams to you “you need this”, and then mentally you know exactly what to do with it. The sudden purchase helped me narrow down what to do with the fabric purchase I had been hoarding. Together, these pieces are awesome, but I really do immensely appreciate how each goes with so much else in my wardrobe.
Many times, spur-of-the-moment projects can satisfy one’s creative need but not really fit into one’s existing separates. Not so with this blouse! It actually looks good with khaki skirts, denim bottoms, and even some rust red and dark brown or white colored bottoms too. As for the pants… they are something I really don’t know how I lived without until now. I like them so much better than my basic black knit pants. The material is nicely substantial and wrinkle free, and doesn’t show fuzz the same as a dark color would. When my pants are worn with a basic blue oxford shirt and some suspenders, I feel like vintage menswear for women wipes out modern business attire. Not even close to equal in awesomeness!
Rayon challis feels remarkably soft and silky on the skin, but as this was a blouse, it needed some stability in the neckline. I didn’t want the collar and button front to be overly stiff from interfacing so I opted to use plain 100% cotton instead. This gave it a bit extra body, and kept the fabric from losing its shape, without the stiffness. As I used khaki colored cotton for the interfacing substitute, it also helped make the facing become invisible (more or less). The pink rayon is slightly sheer, but a slip or anything skin toned becomes invisible under it. I was afraid the double layer of fabric, where the collar and button placket are faced with on big fabric piece, would be glaringly obvious, making the pink a different color there. However the flesh toned cotton interfacing happily disguised that. I do like my sewing to be well engineered, keeping up the art of beautiful insides with tricky facings as subtle as if they are not even there! Keep this in mind if you try this blouse in a light color, too!
The shoulders of this blouse pattern seem to run slightly small. I have generous upper arms so I commonly have problems fitting in modern sleeves and some vintage sleeves, anyway. This pattern is definitely not the tightest in its armscye, but it could benefit from a 5/8 inch longer shoulder seam in the bodice to make it extend out to the end of my actual shoulder blade as well as a wider back for more reach room. The trio of darts at the sleeve caps are such a lovely detail, and make the actual sleeve itself generous in room, so any tightness in the bodice’s armscye is easily forgivable.
Besides the sleeve armscye, I did not find any major regrets to change for next time. I did however, look ahead and make a bunch of slight tweaks. The hem length ran a bit short for a blouse to stay tucked in on its own so I lengthened the blouse the fall under my hipline. The collar was a steep curve to turn right sides out and so I snipped the seam allowances throughout down to about 1/8 inch. The facings did not lie down as nicely as they could so I made the outer hem wider for a thinner facing that meets the back neck collar seam rather than hanging over it. The recommended button placement was weird – the top button makes for a very chokingly high necked blouse while the bottom button ends right at the waistline making it hard to tuck in without looking like you have a majorly protruding belly button. I lowered the top button by over an inch and raised the bottom one by ½ inch (could have brought it up even more) with the middle one coming in between the two. Finally, I added a snap closure to close the blouse between the last third button and the hem. This below the waist snap is something I always see in vintage patterns, and it helps keep my blouses closed nicely so I added it here even though it wasn’t in the instructions I saw. Most of these recommendations I also made to my second, sequel version of this pattern – my silk orange Agent Carter blouse, posted here.
The length of the sleeve hems is something I see frequently “misunderstood” when I see versions of this pattern sewn up. Looking at the original pattern piece, the extra length to the sleeves might appear as a ¾ length sleeve. I installed my sleeve unhemmed to see for myself, and yes, it turns out as long as a ¾ sleeve. I did not like this look in the least on my blouse, nor did the sleeves strike me as having the right shaping to give elbow room to be a ¾ sleeve. Even if you do the instructed 5 something inch hem this makes the sleeve above elbow length, just like what you see on the silky red version on the model images on Simplicity’s site. If you look at the original old pattern’s cover, the sleeves are meant to be cuffed, and honestly I think a shorter, mid-bicep sleeve looks better with this blouse, anyway. It takes a lot of extra fabric to give room for cuffs, and I find it so weird, confusing and misleading that the line drawings and made-up versions to this pattern seems to inexplicably “forget” to show sleeve cuffs, throwing many sewers off with this pattern.
If the versions of this blouse that I am seeing are longer sleeved because they are intended to be so, because they like them that way, then that is another story and all fine and good. But it sure seems the sleeves are this way because of a glitch on Simplicity’s part, since the pattern works out just fine being cuffed without making any changes. I am wondering how many don’t see the sleeves were originally meant to be cuffed, and they don’t realize that in the extra hem length as the pattern intends all because Simplicity “forgot” about it in their modern make-up. Every little detail matters when it comes to vintage – that is what makes it so loved, so likable, so unique, and so timelessly wearable.
Speaking of the sleeve cuffs, since I had made these pants before, and they fit me out of the envelope with no changes needed, I was comfy with the assurance of a good finished pair of pants and therefore played around with the long hem to add cuffs at the hem. Each is cuff is tacked down in four places – one at each side seam, and one at the center fronts and backs. This is what I did for the cuffs of my blouse sleeves, as well. Cuffs are somewhat confusing because you have to over account for the extra fabric, but as I had my previous pair of pants to measure from and I had just done the cuffs on my blouse, I felt more to grips with making cuffs on my pants. I think I would have preferred the cuffs to be a bit wider, now that I look at them, but I feel like they match the blouse this way, add a touch of masculinity, and bring my WWII era pattern up to date with the freedom from rationing that would have been the case with a 1948 outfit.
For these pictures, I had a good taste of how Bernard could easily have been a bothersome handful which was his reputation when we visited the flamingo pond in our town’s zoo. I was a yard or so away from a flamingo fight and they were totally unafraid of people. For all their socialness in the pond, they can really get into things with each other! Their noise quickly turned into a harsh and grating ruckus, and the two fighters walked away with a pride that was really laughable for their movements. Bernard the pet had no intentions of acting like a pet in the least if he was anything like the flamingos I saw!
In ancient culture, flamingos represent a calming confidence. It can also stand for femininity and a firm outspoken attitude. Combine all of these together and there is one awesome combo to stand for an interesting creature. The wild, unpredictable brashness of the flamingo was sort of a running joke and source of humor to the creators of Marvel’s Agent Carter, some of whom I hear were pecked at and chased down by Bernard off set. A trio of Agent Carter ladies had show-girl style flamingo inspired outfits for the song and dance sequence in the beginning of the 9th episode, and from what I have seen on the social media sites of some of the actors/actresses, but especially the costume designer Gigi Melton, anything flamingo related (brooches, novelty fabric, fan art) is appreciated. So – this outfit is to all of that quality entertainment, killer vintage style, and much-needed inspiring characters which is Agent Carter.
You will be seeing my pants making recurring comebacks to match with some of my future to-be-posted blouses. Other than that, don’t fall over when you try to stand like a flamingo, and I will be back at home to share something closer to my winter clime when I give you my next post. Here’s to happy sewing everyone!