There’s nothing to bring my sewing mojo back like reaching for a project that pairs my favorite color of purple with one of my favorite fashion years of 1939! Add in a little Halloween whimsy via a vintage novelty print – but do so in the superior comfort of a cotton gauze – and I have a dress that is just so good, I’m absolutely thrilled. I am not in the mood for anything scary or dark this holiday, so instead I went the cute but on theme look. Does this make it ‘spoopy’?
You may not see anything Halloween related to this dress at first glance, but – similar to every good 1930s or 40’s novelty fabric print – look closer and you will see the subtly hidden details. To let the fantastic print be featured unimpeded by excess design lines, I picked a very simple style very classic of the late 1930s and early 40’s. The basic pattern also helps the softness and whisper weight of the cotton gauze become a dress that is unimpeded by seams. It is so pretty how it flows at my every movement or just a slight breeze and gives such a gentle structure to the silhouette! Happily, this was an easy project to whip together and easy to make, as well. This year I am having a Halloween free from the stress of any costume sewing and so my dress is even more wonderful being the sole extant of my spooky season efforts!
FABRIC: ”Garden Cobwebs” print on an organic 100% cotton sweet pea gauze, 54” in width, custom ordered via Spoonflower (through the shop “raqilu”)
PATTERN: Vintage Vogue #9294, a 2018 reissue of a 1939 pattern, originally Vogue #8659
NOTIONS NEEDED: lots of thread and one long 24” invisible zipper
TIME TO COMPLETE: My dress was finished in 8 to 10 hours and was finished on October 3, 2022
THE INSIDES: All raw edges are cleanly, tightly zig-zag stitched together
TOTAL COST: 2 yards cost me $38
This is my second spider web print dress (my first is posted here) but it is definitely competing for being my favorite spider web dress! True vintage original items in such arachnid related novelty prints can mostly be found from the eras of the 1930s to the 1970s and go for a pretty high price point today. Thus, I am more than happy to sew, and therefore customize, my own versions. I almost chose to make a blouse out of the Spoonflower fabric, but the fact I would have had so much material leftover, as well as the way I didn’t know what skirts or pants would match, dissuaded me from turning it into a separate piece. This particular print seems especially suited for the springtime with the laurel leaves, pastel tones, and subtle webs, and I always seem to think of pretty dresses for spring. Thus, my train of thought led to find the simple dress pattern I did. All the pattern pieces easily fit onto only 2 yards with no nap (one-way direction) to the fabric’s print!
Previous to this this project, I had yet to find a Spoonflower fabric that was anything other than absolutely awful. I am not a fan of the quality of most of the base materials they offer. Their cotton sateen is so stiff it can stand up on its own (this dress), their poly crepe does not hold the printed colors well (this blouse), and their regular cotton sticks to itself like Velcro (project yet to come). However, this organic cotton gauze is an absolute dream come true. It is slightly sheer, and has an unusual grid-like pattern as part of the fiber weave, but it presents the printing beautifully and is a joy to wear and sew with. This is such a welcome surprise, as well as a game changer for me when it comes to knowing what to choose from Spoonflower.
I realized after my order was completed that cotton gauze is found at our local fabric stores in the same aisle as the nursery materials, and so I suspect that this material is often used for baby blankets and swaddling clothes. Oh well – if it’s soft enough for a baby, I certainly don’t want to be left out from enjoying something superior in cuddliness. It’s just not what one would think of using for a garment sewing, I suppose, but I was desperate to find a Spoonflower material that was tolerable. With the spider web print being what it is, and the way I was able to sew it into a cute dress, I don’t think anyone would be any wiser for what I pulled off here working with cotton gauze. So – I fashioned baby blanket material for me, a grown adult, to wear as a classy vintage dress. How freaking amazing is the ability to sew, right?! If you try this experience out for yourself (and I do recommend it), my hot tip is to use a ball point needle (for knits) to sew with and take to time to finish off all raw edges as the gauze likes to unravel and come apart.
I did see a few reviews and other seamstress’ versions of this Vintage Vogue reprint and it seemed to run on the small end of fitting ease. The gauze I was working with is a very loose woven and not the type of fabric that I could see working well with a snug fit or stress at the seams. Thus, I went up a whole size, and I am glad I did! My sole complaint with this pattern is it has a very long torso length. The bodice turned out extraordinarily long on me. I had to shorten it significantly. Otherwise, I love this dress pattern. It would be the best bet for anyone new to sewing who still wants more than a plain dress, as well as anyone wishing to dive into vintage styles. There is lots of room for customization, as well as being perfect for that oversized, novelty, or special fabric print you’ve been wanting to wear. Just double check the sizing and proportions at the pattern stage before you cut, and you should be good to go.
I didn’t do any real alterations to the pattern beyond cutting the skirt front on the fold to eliminate the center seam. Then I switched up the neckline detail in conjunction with adapting the closure method. The pattern, as per any true vintage dress, called for a small side seam closure. Due to the conservative neck design, the pattern combined the side zip with a slit in the front neckline which closes with a tie extension of the bias binding. Instead, I opted for a full 22” long center back invisible zipper for ease of dressing. This way I could eliminate the need for the front neckline slit at the same time as making my life easier. The gauze is so buttery, that I could not see attempting that front neckline slit as ending successfully or being anything other than a stressful effort. I actually prefer the front neckline having relative simplicity and kept the bias binding tie in the back just above the zipper pull. This is the same neckline that I already have on some of my past projects, such as this 1940s blouse and my classic Agent Carter dress, but for some reason I think I like it on myself best with this spider web print dress.
I’m so pleased with all the additional purple add in through my accessories. My earrings are something I made by combining two gradient toned tassels with earring hooks – so simple! My bracelet is actually a beaded necklace I made as well, to go with this outfit (posted here). I have found that if a necklace is not too long, but sits close to the neck, I can wrap it twice around my wrist for it to also work as a bracelet. I enjoy finding new ways to wear items I already have on hand. My shoes were bought to pair with this “Little Mermaid” outfit I made but also match with this dress’ print, luckily. I can never have too much purple, much to my husband’s chagrin.
Our location for these photos was a recently shuttered garden shop. I think it added to the Halloween idea of decay, desertion, and dereliction. Spiders love to find neglected places to fill in with their webs, and so it made sense to me to wear my spider web dress to someplace abandoned. Previously, this business had been a standby staple to our neighborhood for over 80 years, and it is sad to see it closed. It was a busy place while it was open, too popular for us to ever get pictures before now so at least there is some immediate good out of something bad.
I love my dress’ delicate print compliments the details of the building’s wrought iron trellis work – it has a trailing oak leaf and oak acorn design. The oak trees grow tall and stately and are the last to let go of their foliage. To me, this symbolizes stability and strength to have such representation in some trellis work that holds up the front of the building. However, I love the irony of a strong oak and a web represented next to one another, because a spider’s silk is just a strong in its own way! Since an empty web is a home without a tenant, my dress has an added vintage-style jeweled spider brooch, ordered awhile back through “Nicoletta Carlone.com”. Placed on the web over my chest, “Webster” the spider is not really creepy, but rather cute (the “spoopy” factor strikes again).
This dress is a practical, low-key way to join in on the Halloween fun, but the way it is also a vintage style is so ‘me’. I am thrilled! For many, this holiday can be such an exhausting occasion involving so much drama and effort for all types and levels of creators. Why not instead channel a bit of that creativity to do a quick and easy little selfish project that saves your sanity, as I did? Don’t get me wrong though – I have had many a Halloween that becomes my excuse to make that full-out, over-the-top cosplay so I can understand anyone who lives for this holiday. I am not there this year, and this pretty, purple, vintage spider web print dress is all I wanted to make the season special.
Whether you celebrate, sew, wear a costume, or do none of these, I hope whatever you do for the day makes it a wonderful time.