Pleather Wrap Corset Top

     Last year ended up being my time for chasing down innovative sewing accomplishments and stimulating creative projects.  I didn’t plan for this but the inspiration I was drawn towards helped things happen that way!  2025’s “Designin’ December” project of a difficult-to-make designer dress and then a Moschino dress to meet the great fashion legend Jeremy Scott were not the only momentous sewing projects of year…only the ones shared so far.  Something good is always up my sleeves!  I would like to begin my posts for 2026 with more of my favorite projects from last year.  This January’s posts will show you how I’ve been dabbling in sewing clothes that are on the edge of unconventional.  This wrapped corset top is certainly out-of-the-ordinary after my many years of blogging primarily vintage fashion!   

     My garment is made of material that is possibly a sewist’s nightmare.  It cannot be pinned, is not washable or breathable, extremely shifty under a sewing machine, and is one of the most popular man-made fabrics from the last hundred years…faux leather!  At this point, I primarily work with silk, wool, cotton, rayon, or other soft and breathable fabrics so this project was a real adventure in both trusting my mental vision and hoping my machine would tolerate such a material.  I have successfully worked with a similar vinyl “pleather” material before for small projects such as belts (posted here and here), a 1940s era purse (posted here), and even as the neckline decoration for some dresses (as seen here and here).  Thus, pleather was nothing completely novel for me.  Even still, a small belt or dress trimming is completely different than attempting a multi-seamed garment out of the same material.  This project felt like an exciting step into foreign territory for me to sew with and also wear. 

     It wasn’t just the material that helped my project to be unusual, however, but the style was itself strange and edgy for me to try, too.  Nevertheless, this pleather corset is evidence of how my subjective fashion sense is changing as I get older, due, in no small part, to experiencing so many years of a handmade wardrobe.  My personal style is evolving to be more adventurous, especially when I am not sporting vintage clothing.  What is staying the same is my desire for creative, finely-crafted clothing with an eco-conscious outlook, all made in the spirit of enjoyable resourcefulness and innovative individuality.

THE FACTS:

FABRIC: a thin jersey backed vinyl “pleather”, with a grooved texture in a cherry red cranberry color

PATTERN: Burda Style pattern no. 106, from the August 2025 collection, called the “corset top” in the magazine and “viscose top” online

NOTIONS NEEDED: I only needed thread (and a scrap of interfacing) since the buckle was re-used from my old belt.

TIME TO COMPLETE: This was completed in about 5 hours in November 2025.

THE INSIDES: So clean! The inside is fully lined, with some fun decorative stitching inside the front panel.

TOTAL COST: Nothing!

Here is the original belt which I made in 2016 using Vogue pattern #9222 worn with my 1973 shirt dress.

     The very first belt I made with pleather no longer fits me, but I didn’t want to give up on it either.  I wanted to only make it better.  This sentiment was the impetus behind using up the rest of my matching scraps for a design which would integrate that old piece.  With such a plan, re-working the original item into being something else lets me see my old projects find a new life.  I am always sad to say goodbye to my earlier projects but love the excitement of refreshing their look.  It is incredibly fun to exercise my creative juices in the ways that a refashion requires. 

     I do normally despise plastic ‘leather’.  However, I also never like to let go of any project in which my time has been invested.  I prefer refashioning as a responsible answer to clinging onto my work when it has become no longer useful.  In my wardrobe, everything has to be wearable and enjoyable or it gets turned around…particularly the poly materials!  One constructive way to deal with plastic fashion is to keep it going for as long as possible.  Our world already has enough discarded polyester from the constant stream of cheap, poorly made fast fashion.  Those with the talent of sewing can be the ones with the power to turn this landslide of waste into a boon.  Saving one little item such as my old belt (and its scraps) from the rubbish bin by re-using the raw material is mere baby steps towards making the best of the ever increasing amount of pollution that plastic products like pleather are adding to the environment.  My experimental project is a big win no matter how I look at it.

Here is the new and improved belt now on my corset top, worn once again with the same dress!

     Burda Style’s corset pattern employs small pieces that only call for curvy seams without darts makes it perfect for the thick and bulky weight of the pleather scraps I was using.  The fact that I was only clipping the seams and not pinning made construction process both streamlined and scary.  This was amazingly a quick and easy project to make, especially when I did not have to create the belt from scratch.  There is a soft cotton lining inside to keep this feeling as comfortable as possible for vinyl.  I only added interfacing to the center front panel of the lining and simplified the design just in case the pattern would become an issue.  However, the pattern has everything going for it.  The fit is fantastic, the sizing was spot on, the pieces matched together perfectly, and I have nothing bad to say about this fashion-forward design.  I did not expect this pattern to work as well as it did for pleather, but I was just crossing my fingers.  I attribute my success to the pattern being so great in the first place.  This pattern will definitely be used again in my future sewing plans.

     There were a few tweaks needed for the old belt to help it work for this new design.  Also, I took this opportunity to correct some less than stellar details on the original belt.  Firstly, the original belt was curvy and I needed to trim it straight.  This meant I needed to finish the edges anew, which was something that was sorely needed anyway.  The old belt had its edges finished with nail polish and that rubbed off onto my clothes. 

Then, the grommet eyelet holes needed to be addressed.  The old belt’s grommets were no longer stable, so the end portion was taken apart and re-set back together.  Now, the belt is sturdier than before and something I am much happier about.  Finally, I realized the pleather is too stretchy on its own to support the wrap closure of the top.  Therefore, I added a grosgrain ribbon inside my belt straps prior to sewing them together again.  The original buckle was reused since it still fit perfectly onto the newly adapted belt straps.  The buckle is simple enough to not overwhelm the corset top but also large enough to fill in as the highlight detail.  

These are the two examples Burda Style shows for wearing the corset top pattern.

     Oversized belts that function as corsets, in either real or imitation leather, have been having their quiet moment of fashion popularity since 2025.  After months of curiosity over the trend, I figured on finally jumping on board with this project at the end of the year.  Luckily, there is plenty of inspiration to work off of by being a late comer.  So many “modern trendy” outfits pair such belts over basic wardrobe staples, such as a white shirt and jeans or tailored suit separates.  These combos look kind of sloppy on me and do my petite frame no great favors.  I am never one for blindly following a trend anyway so I looked outside of the box for more inspiration.  Several popular social media fashionistas from India as well as the renowned “saree stylist of India”, Dr. Aamee Hafsa Nazar, are styling modern corset belts over traditional ethnic fashion for an artistic and creative interpretation of the trend.  (See this video here for just one example.)  Such ideas are definitely on my bucket list to try!  I think highly of the company Aria Margo which has been offering some very fine leather corset belts (that double as tops).  Aria Margo shows some edgy styling that I appreciate even if my body cannot personally pull off such a look.  An article from “Who What Wear” has more great styling ideas and also product links for those of you who will not be sewing your own corset belt like me.

     There is a specific designer precedent to this trend that I have admired during my construction of this project.  Givenchy’s Haute Couture summer 2001 collection by Alexander McQueen is everything I wish I could construct and wear.  His oversized, molded corset belts are akin to armor of the past, and I love the reference.  McQueen’s unique interpretation helps me visualize how these corset belts are deeply rooted in a pseudo historicism that is merged with a notion of fantasy.  With the right design tweaks, some novelty material, and avant-garde styling, Burda Style’s corset belt can be reminiscent of anything from Wonder Woman to ancient military armor.  I plan on trying out my corset belt over such me-made vintage items such as my blue turtleneck dress by the designer Kenzō Takada or my 1930s burnout velvet gown for an experimental kind of accessorizing.  Being a brand new make, I have yet to feel comfortable with the look of my pleather corset top until I can see everything that it can do for my wardrobe.  Figuring out my very own way to spin this trend and make it my own is the goal here, and I am looking forward to taking on that challenge.

     Self-expression through the lens of fashion is much more accessible and enjoyable when one can sew.  Half of the things I try out because I can make them would probably be disliked if bought ready-to-wear instead.  I know this possibility is not available to everyone, but I would at least encourage those in such a boat to support small business creators.  They can customize something just for you, crafting an item that is just your style to be made with great care and fantastic talent.  This way, the things you buy will likely not only be made with a quality that will last, but also your wardrobe will more accurately express your individuality and therefore be loved for longer. 

     Sewing with pleather was not as scary as it may seem and I recommend it.  Yet, there is no real margin for error, so any project that employs it needs courage tempered with caution.  Nevertheless, this material is cheap and plenteous enough to be accessible for any creator who wants to experiment.  Try the upcycling approach to sew with pleather, such as buying scraps or secondhand material!  Re-work an old plastic tote bag into a purse, strip the faux leather off of some old furniture that needs a refresh to make a new garment, or cut apart some old boots which no longer work for you to end up with a great belt.  The possibilities are exciting and endless to help the unholy amount of plastic products leftover from the fashion market become circular. 

     Stay tuned for more posts about the unconventional sewing ideas that I have been enjoying lately.

Two Turtleneck Tops

     As a cold-sensitive person, I learned early on that smart layers, especially those which keep my neck cozy, are vital pieces in my winter wardrobe.  I used to not be thrilled over turtlenecks, but have always loved how they kept me from being cold, so it has been high time for me to find a fashionable answer to this dilemma. 

Over the years, I have dabbled in making dresses or tops that have funnel necks, mock necks, rolled collars, or other neck-covering styles that aren’t outright turtlenecks.  My boy has received a plain turtleneck from my sewing room and I’ve made an attempt at a modern twist on one in 2017.  None of them have satisfied my desire for the perfect wintertime separate…until now!  I have finally found a way to appreciate the warmth and coziness turtlenecks provide in the cold weather by sewing my own. 

THE FACTS:

FABRIC:  a silk and rayon blend jersey from Mood Fabrics for the ivory top, and a micro silk-modal blend jersey for the black top

PATTERN:  The “Audrey” turtleneck PDF Sewing Pattern by Julie (sold via Etsy) and the Burda Style “Stretch Shirt” #117 from December 2015

Burda Style #117 12/2015

NOTIONS:  I only needed thread!

TIME TO COMPLETE:  Each shirt was completed in about 6 hours’ time…so 12 hours for both.  The ivory top was finished in November 2023 while the black top has been my first project of 2025.

THE INSIDES:  Cleanly zig-zag stitched over in two passes very close to the edge in order to have my old machine imitate a modern serger (overlocker)

TOTAL COST:  The Mood Fabrics silk jersey cost me $17 for one and a half yard while the black jersey cost me $13 for one yard.

Here, my top is inside out so I can show off my clean seams!!

     First off, such garments are a necessary under layer when hitting the slopes to ski or snowboard, and a trip to Colorado a year ago was a great excuse to raise the bar on my winter wardrobe.  The time had come to sew an ideal turtleneck that would be a bit of everything.  It needed to be warm but lightweight, basic but tailored, and practical but luxurious.  A deluxe silk blend jersey was my material of choice for this project because I know silk adjusts to a changing body temperature.  Between standing outside and the activity of snowboarding, I figured there could be great variations from being cold to hot.  However, between the silk jersey turtleneck against my skin and my retro original 1990 Roffe brand ski coat, I was always at the perfect temperature.  The right supplies really do make all the difference!  For the first time ever in the cold and the snow, I was dry and warm during hours outside on a mountain in Snowmass, Colorado.  It was a satisfying triumph all around – for the top, but especially for my first try at snowboarding!  How many people can boast they have something handmade to wear for hitting the slopes?

     I chose my pattern from a small independent creator for something different. I wanted to give Julie, a designer who I have been following for many years via Instagram, some of my business when she finally began offering her own patterns for purchase.  The “Audrey” pattern was released just as I was looking for something similar, so I jumped on Julie’s design.  My version ended up with some fitting issues, which I am crediting to her proportional model chart.  The body type the top pattern was drafted for seems different from either Burda Style or the Big Four (Simplicity, McCall’s, Butterick, and Vogue), all of which I am accustomed to using.  Julie’s pattern is for a woman taller than me.  I also found the wearing ease generous.  To fix these issues, I brought in the side seams a bit, pick up the shoulders by a whole inch, and finally adjust the sleeves and neck to match.  Overall, I tried not to mess with the general design.  There is fantastic curving in the side seams and the sleeve shaping is first rate.  The turtleneck collar is just enough to not be confining, yet still keep my neck warm.  It is sized enough to fit easily over my head.  I did have trouble keeping the slinky, shifting knit in a straight enough grain for the collar piece, which makes the collar twist around slightly.  I am not complaining, though…this top is a rousing success.

Look at how sheer but elegant my handmade turtleneck is here, drying on a clothes rack in our mountain cabin!

     A fine silk jersey is so confounding to work with and wear.  I am convinced silk jersey is the material of contradictions but I have found myself addicted nonetheless.  First off, it feels like wrangling delicate spider threads to work with.  The jersey is weightless and incredibly insubstantial, making the process of turning the fabric into a garment a bit fiddly and challenging.  Even a hangnail or roughly polished table can catch on it.  Yet, the fabric is somehow strong enough to not run a snag or a pull.  It has an elegant drape with an appearance vastly smoother than your normal knit with a slight satin sheen.  All of these qualities help my top to be the best ever travel piece since it air dries in under an hour, resists wrinkles due to its softness, and packs into the size of the average sandwich by being so lightweight.  Yes, it is sheer, but somehow doesn’t seem to be see through once worn.  For being so thin, nevertheless, the fabric miraculously manages to keep me just warm enough to never catch a chill.  Being a newbie to this material, I am overall in awe and wish I would have tried sewing with silk jersey sooner.  It is as easy to enjoy as it is to take care of, a characteristic I am not used to for something so deluxe.  Anything made of silk jersey can easily become everyday finery!

     With such a positive experience under my belt, I was determined to sew yet another similar turtleneck in a useful, simple black color for the following winter.  I stayed true to my determination!  Since buying the ivory knit, Mood Fabrics has not offered any colors for their silk jersey, but I found a similar blend in a true black via a seller on Etsy (see site link in “The Facts”).  This time, my fabric is a micro knit, and even more delicate yet resilient.  I love this version!  I can see myself wearing it so much now, from layering it under my 1980s inspired strapless dress to pairing it with my 1940s suit set.

     I found a pattern which has a touch of detail to the neckline, so that I can keep my black turtleneck basic yet also more fashionable than the previous one.  The particular Burda design I used came from a magazine that has had many great “hits” for me already (such as this blouse and skirt set, or this cocoon coat), and so I had a good feeling it would turn out splendidly.  I was correct!  Other than sewing slightly wider seam allowances to taper the fit, this version was whipped together in one night and was an easy success.  The front peek-a-boo keyhole was eliminated and the height of the turtle neck collar was reduced in half.  Otherwise, the neckline gathers were still kept (of course, as they are the key detail here).  Nothing else was changed to the design.  I took the extra time to do hand stitching on this top for all hemming, since the black knit was even more delicate than the fabric which was used before.  Contrary to the pattern’s chart, one yard was enough fabric for this fantastic top with the wider selvedge of my material.  Yet another winter wardrobe staple was crossed off my wish list in no time with very little effort or expense.

     Because I am both ‘cheap and chic’, but also cannot help but see a turtleneck as being tied to the 1980s or 90s, I couldn’t help but pair my top with an original retro designer mini skirt from my wardrobe.  In order to help this turtleneck rise above the simple one that rode the slopes with me under my ski suit, my black version is paired with a Moschino brand skirt, novelty tights, and my old 90s strapy heels for these pictures.  My skirt’s label is Moschino’s “Cheap and Chic” line, from one of his lesser known late 1990s collections.  I love how the skirt has similar qualities of my top – subtle details, fine quality material, great fit, and fun style. 

The ‘print’ on the pique finished cotton is not just plaid, but actually small lines of text which makes references to rebellion, irony, and eclecticism in both Italian and English.  It was perfect for the “literary punk/modern Dark Academia” look I was going for with my outfit, especially when our pictures were taken at a library.  I previously (in this post) talked about how Franco Moschino was a strong influence on my 2024 fashion choices, and continues to be into this coming year.  Such a cute skirt from one of my favorite modern designers helps me enjoy finding ways to see my turtlenecks of today as elevated above the mediocre ones of my childhood. 

     These two tops continue to teach me an excellent lesson, one that I hope can offer others to learn from as well.  Sewing your own “boring” basics is incredibly worthwhile!  I find it even more of a treat to wear something handmade on a regular basis, than crafting a fancy gown to be enjoyed only once in a while.  The fact that you are the one sewing provides an opportunity to elevate such basics to a level which otherwise may be either unaffordable or unable to be found, and customize both the fit and details to your liking.  This will ensure that any time spent on sewing will be worthwhile and help you fill your closet with items that will be a wardrobe’s MVP.

     My ivory turtleneck is a beautifully handmade winter staple item with straightforward lines and the coziest qualities I could hope for.  Best yet, it carries with it the great memory of my first exciting and awkward but still triumphant time snowboarding.  My black turtleneck is a fashionable variety of everything I loved about the former project with an extra flair of fun and sophistication.  It fulfills my childhood outfit goals and my current sense of style at the same time.  Between both tops, I am helping my least favorite season to have my favorite wardrobe.  I see the cold as yet another challenge to sew fashions which are not lacking in style for their element of warmth.  Sir Ranulph Fiennes, a British explorer who has trekked both the North and South Poles as well as completely crossing Antarctica on foot, has said, “There is no such thing as bad weather, only inappropriate clothing.”

The X Wrap Dress

     I have a particular weakness for patterns which offer me the opportunity to sew myself exceptional garments which standout from “the norm”.  If I am going to the time and effort to sew in the first place, I want a construction challenge that is good for my skills and turns out a truly one-of-a-kind piece of clothing!  Many times the best fashions are the ones which create a conversation, defy expectations, or showcase the individuality of the wearer. 

     Besides sourcing unique patterns from vintage or various designer offerings, Burda style is the company that I often rely on for designs not to be found elsewhere.  They have changed their website as well as their approach to fashion in the last several years and so their offerings of today are not nearly as impressive to my sewing tastes as they used to be.  I find the best designs to be coming from their magazines which are older than the last decade, whether that be a vintage collectible one (from which I made this 1965 dress) or a publication from 10 years ago, as is the case for this post’s dress.  Good style never goes out of style, after all.

     Our pictures were taken at the “Origami In the Garden” exhibit back in the summer of 2021 at the Missouri Botanical Garden.  I felt that this origami inspired dress was more than appropriate for the outdoor exhibit’s stunning sculptures, as I will allude to in different ways further down in my post.  To be able to sculpt something breathtaking of plain steel sheets is sort of like crafting this fabulous dress from a stiff dupioni made of “imperfect” cocoons of the unsightly silk worms!

THE FACTS:

FABRIC:  a 100% raw silk dupioni in a specialty two-tone pink and yellow color way

PATTERN:  Burda Style “X Wrap Dress” #106 pattern from April 2014

NOTIONS NEEDED:  All I needed was lots of thread and a few scraps of interfacing.

TIME TO COMPLETE:  This dress was made in about 20 hours, and was finished in March of 2021.

THE INSIDES:  Most raw edges are cleanly finished in bias tape while the sleeves are strong with their French seams…as seen in the picture at left.

TOTAL COST:  I ordered this fabric direct from a small silk supplier on Etsy (but who is no longer on that marketplace).  The fabric was on sale for $20 a yard at a width of 60”, and I ordered two yards. Every other notion I needed to finish this dress was vintage, already in my stash through my Grandmother’s inherited collection. Thus, my total here is just under $50…what a deal!!

     My own dress has clearly been influenced by the choices of other ladies on the internet who have shared their experiences with this complex pattern.  Most versions of this pattern were in a solid print, which I liked to see, as such a choice nicely shows off the namesake X detail of the dress.  Yet, there were a couple appealing versions which were sewn up in a bright orange (such as can be found on Catherine Daze’s Blog or Liliv on Pattern Review).  I really like orange enough to wear it year ‘round (which is why these pictures are from the summer) so this was an irresistible idea.   Now that it is October, I feel that sharing this eye-catching orange dress in the traditional color for fall is the perfect way to transition my project posts into more of a seasonal theme.   

     Nevertheless, my practical side reminded me that I do have many garments in tonal varieties of orange already.  To make this dress exceptional as well as individual, I chose a very niche version of orange by using iridescent silk dupioni.  I knew just by looking at the design that a fine fabric which had a lightweight yet crisp texture would be ideal, even though the instructions called for softly draping dress fabrics.  There was no way the X front was going to hold its shape in anything too soft, nor would a plain fabric please me when working with a standout design that was calling to receive the “special treatment”. 

Look at the distinctive yellow and reddish shine on my dress, belying the two thread colors used to make orange in this changeable silk!

     The fabric is technically not a true orange, to add a curious element of irony.  It is woven with a combo of hot pink and ochre yellow threads to dupe the eye from a distance into seeing orange.  Upon a closer inspection (maybe 7 to 10 inches away), one can see the true divided colors of the fabric’s weave, especially since this dupioni is a raw silk which has prominent thread “slubs” (bumps) on its surface texture.  This is why these kinds of fabrics are called “shot silk” or “changeable”, as well as “two-tone”.  They are sometimes called iridescent fabrics for their mysteriously inherent shine (as can be seen on this Ungaro suit I made in 2020).  The two thread colors become more prominent upon the creases and folds.  As I move around in such a gorgeous material, the crisp yet soft hand of the fabric adds to its beauty in a way that mesmerizes me.  It is the best way for me to make a ‘plain’ orange so very deluxe and interesting.  I love silk anyways, but this variety of dupioni is one of the best natural fibers yet to land in my wardrobe.   

     Dupioni is a natural form silk fabric loomed with raw fibers.  The random slubs of uneven surface threads are part of dupioni’s remarkable beauty and distinguish from shantung, a similar crisp-textured silk.  It is created with fine, smooth threads in the warp and irregular thread, reeled from cocoons that are entangled together in groups of two or more, in the weft.  There is an inherent closeness that is part of the natural process to this particular silk based on the knowledge of the “twin” cocoons.  This stirs up some interesting reflections for me that are heighted by the sculptures I am standing with in my post’s pictures.  The origami inspired sculpture behind me depicts the life stages of a butterfly called “Emerging Peace”.  I cannot help but think of how silk worms never have the chance to fulfill their potential to be a winged creature, enjoying the fleeting freedom of their life’s final stage.  Yet, the product of their cocoon still becomes something amazingly beautiful in its own right, worked into a fiber product to clothe humanity over the centuries.  Perhaps we secretly want in on the miraculous work of these stunning creatures who so gracefully embody both strength and fragility, the same qualities for which we find ourselves mesmerized by the ethereal fibers of silk.  

A dupioni loom

     Against most online advice, I did pre-wash my dupioni, as I normally wash all my other silks.  I almost never sew a garment that needs to be solely dry-cleaned.  Silk does lose strength when wet but the dual thread density makes dupioni stronger than other weaves.  The first wash surprisingly shrunk the fabric down by about 8 inches overall and crinkled it up along the selvedge.  An ironing job easily fixes the wrinkles, but I found the way you iron this dupioni will affect what it becomes.  A dry ironing of the dupioni is risky (as it can easily burn), very smelly, and requires finesse.  Yet, it preserves the crisp feel that the fabric had before it was first washed.  If you do steam ironing or press it while still wet, the dupioni becomes softer and more malleable, with greater draping abilities and less smell.  The fabric does spot easily at the least bit of wetness, whether that be from the rain or my body’s sweat (as can be seen down my back from behind).  Such spots dry very quickly so as to regulate my body’s temperature like a natural air-conditioning.  An overall washing easily “resets” the fabric back to its original beautiful pristine luster, as long as I take the time to do the ironing required afterwards. 

     Thus, the care required of this dress’ dupioni is a bit of an unpleasant yet still interesting cycle.  The extra dye which leeched out at the first laundering has me glad that my dress is washable, after all.  I would not want that dye on my skin.  More importantly, freshly washed silk does not acquire insect nibbles in this house as compared to dry cleaned items!  As you can see, a water laundering does work out on fancy silk dupioni and helps this dress be suited to my needs and desires.  Like a silkworm finding its final fulfillment of beauty, this dress has a transformational process as it goes from clean to dirty once again.  I absolutely love the qualities and properties surrounding silk, and this dupioni has to be the most interesting yet.

     Let’s get back to the dress design which is the reason the fabric is now wearable, after all.  As soon as I saw it, it gave me the same intrigue that I have when I see a really curious designer garment.  The structural garments of Japanese designers in particular share a similarity with this ingenious style.  The simple inventiveness of Japandi architectural design no doubt gave such cultural designers an advantage.  Yet, the art of origami probably furthered their understanding of manipulating simple shapes to their ultimate advantage.  Thus, this dress is actually a bit of an introduction to sharing something in a follow-up blog post that will highlight a famous designer from Japan!

     “Eye catching pleats have a wrap dress effect that’s contemporary and striking” was the summary given by the pattern itself.   The pleats are sneaky, and only part of the X effect from the waist down.  Cut-on, self-enclosed ties actually fan out from those crossed pleats to become a full collar, thus continuing the deceptive look of a wrapped front.  The way Burda patterns are infamous for only having textual instructions and lacking visual aids left me more confused than normal when looking at the utterly nonsensical shapes of the dress pieces. 

The blog “Make & Wear” has a pictorial step by step construction guide (to be found here) that I found very helpful.  Her clear pictures and explanations of her mistakes along the way helped shed light to the odd pattern pieces.  However, trusting to Burda’s instructional text actually helped me get through the last of my own difficulties with the pattern.  Connecting the numbered corners was a lifesaver, thanks to water soluble fabric ink markers!  Do not skip marking a single line, notch, or corner when preparing the fabric pieces for this dress.  Adding interfacing squares over the corners inside is especially important, as they are the only reason my silk has not completely shredded apart at those spots.

     There isn’t much I changed or adapted here.  It is good just as Burda offers it.  I did find that the upper bodice seems to runs on the small side, particularly the sleeves.  Yet, you need a good fit in the dress’ upper half or else this would look like an oversized bag to wear.  As a head’s up, this snug fit slightly concerns me only due to the delicate nature of washed dupioni, but would work out well if this dress was sewn of a stretchy knit.  I left out installing the side seam zipper, just as most others had done who have also blogged about this pattern.  The dress so easily pops over the head since the X shaped front opens up for plenty of room.  I did still keep the side pockets.  There is nothing that feels as deluxe as a fancy dress that also has the practicality of a necessary detail like pockets.  I did slightly lengthen the hem length.  Otherwise, the dress would have been quite short.  The dip of the V neckline was slightly raised up, as well.  Most of my seams were hand finished for a final special touch.   

     I am pleasantly surprised at the many looks this dress has.  It can be very classy or even business-like.  It works well with a blazer and even a belt, too.  There is a gap between where the X front comes out from the pleats but the ties are not yet attached to the neckline, and a belt can cinch in the waist under the criss-cross design.  Tall winter boots or opaque tights make this dress adapt for wintertime, since (as I said above) orange is for all seasons in my house and I love bright colors year ‘round!  I normally do not repeat patterns such as this one that are so distinctive and not up for much change to the design, yet I can picture this dress in a dense knit, with long sleeves.  Perhaps I will return to this design again in the future!

     Creativity is not a finite source but is only constrained by our own limitations.  Inventive garment designs are essential to moving ahead with the chronological progression of fashion.  However, enabling the home seamstress or fashion conscious individual to interpret the most imaginative sewing designs aids in exploring innovative expression and keeps fashion in the hands of those who find themselves captivated by its possibilities.  Smart pattern designs are an excellent way to keep alive all levels of interest in a visible display of the best ideas within our human capacity for clothing the body in a decorative manner.  I encourage you to undertake this Burda pattern or any other interesting garment design that will challenge your skills and your way of thinking.  It is good to try out new things and experimenting with fashion is a great way to find novel ways to discover different aspects to yourself!