I’m changing up my normal vintage content to present to you a historical outfit of a circa 1913 blouse and skirt set. This post’s project is perhaps my most unusual historical sewing attempt as I was also trying to have it be a creative interpretation of a Disney movie’s leading lady. This means yet another official installment to add to my ongoing “Pandemic Princess” blog series! However, having a soft spot for 1910 era fashion, I found myself deeming this as my top favorite historical make. My project soon morphed into a bigger, more intensive sewing expedition which took up most of one summer’s free time a few years back. This post therefore only shows part one of the overall intent to create a versatile wardrobe of authentic early teen’s era separates. I hope you enjoy seeing me in a different style! I am so proud to have a historical outfit that truly feels so well suited to my taste and personal style. It was a labor of love to create.
“Mulan” (a 1998 animated feature film) was the preliminary impetus behind my set. Mulan is special in her own right being Disney’s first attempt at Asian representation. Furthermore, Mulan is a heroine who was not awarded, born or married into royalty, rendering her the honor of being the first non-princess main character. Even with any failings in being culturally appropriate, such representation is still worth celebrating. Mulan’s fierce loyalty, adaptive intelligence, and inherent bravery renders her as one of the most dynamic female protagonists for Disney. Combining these traits with her great filial piety, dogged determination, and tendency to self-reflection makes her an indomitable leading lady. Her Disney movie was the first of its (now common) kind of genre, offering an independent female role model who is capable, strong in character, and can take care of herself.
My post’s title comes from the Chinese symbols for “Loyal Brave True” which were etched on the blade awarded to Mulan’s father. These three words are inherent to the story since that sword was the weapon she took from home when she disguised herself as a soldier to fight for both her country and her family’s honor. In the 2020 live action telling of Mulan’s story, the symbol for “Family” is also added when the paternal sword becomes her very own. The new movie remake happily included an excellent song adaptation of these famous words so synonymous with Disney’s Mulan. Singer Christina Aguilera, who performed the song in a music video for the newest (2020) live action Mulan movie, has stated that the “meaning holds the test of time: staying true to yourself, being who you are, and teaching how to be fearless. ‘Loyal Brave True,’ represents the fine balance between vulnerability and strength.”
The story of Mulan has been retold and remade for many centuries now. Mulan is originally a fictional folk song or ballad poem comprised of 392 characters whose story originated from the Northern “Wei” Dynasty (4th to 6th-century) of China. Many historians do seem to agree on the understanding that Mulan’s people were “Xianbei”, a semi-nomadic, early Mongolian people who lived in what today is Northern China. The story wasn’t based on anything factual, but was a legend sung to children or recounted as a source for national pride. In 1593, playwright Xu Wei dramatized the Ballad of Mulan into a stage adaptation called, “The Female Mulan,” and the longer narrative grew more popular. Even before the 1998 version of Mulan, there were a handful of other film adaptations released which helped popularized her story to a worldwide audience.
THE FACTS:
FABRIC: The skirt is a cotton and poly blend “linen-look” woven, fully lined in a cling free polyester, with a buttery yellow poly crepe hem contrast. The blouse is a Pima cotton lawn “Pimpernel” print by William Morris, with a whisper thin vintage ivory cotton overlay for the front bodice panels and sleeve cuffs.
PATTERNS: for the top – a “Small Sized Blouse Pattern” circa 1913 reprinted from Past Patterns; for the bottom skirt – a Simplicity #8640, a “Titanic” movie inspired suit set pattern from the year 1999
NOTIONS: I used special true vintage notions on this outfit – the buttons, hook-n-eye closures, cotton lawn bias tape, and the blouse’s add-on collar. The buttons are probably 1940s or 1950 era but the rest of the notions were either from the 1910s or 1920s. Other than that I used modern supplies on hand – lots of thread and one zipper for the skirt.
TIME TO COMPLETE: The blouse needed almost 30 hours to make while the skirt took me 15 hours to finish. Both were worked on through July 2021.
THE INSIDES: My blouse is finished with French seams and my skirt seams are covered by the lining.
TOTAL COST: The blouse’s fabric was the only real significant expense – about $20 for one yard, from Minerva Crafts. I did also buy the butter yellow crepe contrast (which sticks out from under the skirt hem) at $7 for one yard from my local JoAnn Fabrics store. All else was bought second hand so it was very cheap. For the skirt, the yellow linen-look was $3 for 6 yards (I only needed 2 for the skirt) and the skirt lining and zipper was on hand in my stash. For the blouse, the antique collar was $3 and the vintage sheer cotton overlay was $1 for 3 yards. The card of old buttons – which went towards both pieces – were only $1 at an antique store. My total for this outfit is about $35.
I have been thrilled to have reasons to wear this set to several events since. These occasions gave me the opportunity to try different accessory pairings to sport a different flair. Doing so shows the varied sources of inspiration which helped make my creation a success, too, beyond just having a Mulan interpretation. As much as I originally planned this to be a historical princess set, I found myself additionally inspired by the “Art Nouveau” and “Arts and Crafts” Movements of the 1910s as well as Rose’s fashion in the iconic 1997 Titanic movie throughout my planning process. I chose my favorite William Morris art for my blouse – the “Pimpernel”, printed circa 1876 – and then actually wore it to an exhibit in Chicago that was highlighting his original work! How special is this opportunity!! Then, I specifically drafted certain details into my skirt so it could work as part of a larger Titanic movie inspired set – the part two of this post I mentioned above. As I will point out again and again, this is an amazingly versatile historical set of separates! Thus, do not be surprised if you see different non-Mulan themed pictures thrown in throughout this post.
Going back to the topic I was on above “The Facts”, the year 1913 – for as prim and pretty as the fashions from that time are – seemed just right to channel the spirit of Mulan. It was at the forefront of the age of the “modern woman”. The previous Edwardian era of leisure and romanticism was at its tail end, World War I was just about to begin, and the role of women in society was changing. They were beginning to fend for themselves, do without husbands or servants, gaining the right to vote (such as in Germany, Austria, Canada, and the Balkan states), and even beginning to take the place of men in the workplace like never before. This is was one main symbolical reason for choosing 1913 to interpret Mulan. Women from all over the world in 1913 needed Mulan’s traits to get through the tough times that were ahead of them! They needed versatile separate pieces to wear for that newly active independent life, items that were just as easy to wash as they were to match with. Much like how Mulan’s clothes (aka, her soldier’s attire) reflected her change of state of life, many women of the 1910 decade were no doubt wearing a uniform of some sort after 1914. Perhaps it was because they were serving the military, assisting in nursing, hired for factory work, or being an ambulance driver. Whatever the reason, their clothes – in or out of uniform – became something which needed to be workable and practical in some capacity and separates over dresses were more necessary than ever.
I did not want an outfit of cultural interpretation here. Instead, I chose to channel the era of fashion history which mimicked the long skinny skirts, obi belts, and arrow-style sleeves of what Mulan wears (when not in soldier’s uniform) in the ’98 animated film. The most wearable, natural interpretation for me to have a historical basis for Mulan’s outfit (with no ethnic association) was to channel the early 1910s. The slender “hobble” skirts, sash belts, ornate hairstyles, and beautiful blouses of the first few years into that decade matched with Mulan’s aesthetic perfectly. I also wanted to take things a step further and channel one of her outfit colorways, too. I am a sucker for a pretty yellow, and noticed a butter yellow color in the skirt she wears when we first meet her doing her morning duties at home. Serendipitously, 1913 seemed to have a soft yellow color frequently recurring in the fashions of the year. Those 6 yards of yellow linen-look fabric that had been picked for no other reason than being cheap, suddenly had a purpose.
This general idea became a guiding inspiration when I found an antique decorative hair comb while out visiting vintage shops with a friend. For me, it is rare to have an outfit idea clearly come together due to an accessory, yet I daresay such a path worked out well here. My hair comb is a golden yellow which pairs well with my butter yellow skirt, and so it led my overall colorway choice to become warm but soft earth tones.
The hair comb, however, had such a perfect symbolism to tie in with the outfit. There are blossoms etched into the comb’s intricate details reminiscent of the Mulan Magnolia. The comb itself is curved much like traditional half-moon Chinese hair ornaments, too, besides the fact it is dated to the teens or early 1920s. I could not have been happier at discovering this find, especially since it was such a reasonable price. Luckily, my friend encouraged me not leave it behind. With the added jewels, inset mother-of-pearl flower petals, and carving details that blow my mind, I feel so honored to be its owner now.
The Disney film’s plot takes place in China during the Han dynasty,where Fa Mulan, daughter of aged warrior Fa Zhou, impersonates a man to take her father’s place during a general conscription to counter a Hun invasion. This is not true to the traditional ballad poem (which I explained above “The Facts”). Thus it makes sense that I see the artistic license of the animated movie as showing her blouse as a Hanfu, the traditional styles of clothing worn by the Han people in China. Her sleeves are often arrow-style, most often seen on a northern Chinese Hanfu.
No doubt, Mulan’s clothing was drawn this way because she was a practical and very active character. Yet, her sleeves also make sense if you are trying to look at the film with a historical point of view. Arrow sleeves (called “Jian Xiu”) are cut as one with the main body of the garment. They are wide for freedom of movement, tapering down above the wrist to a close fit, and normally end with a cuff. A very similar style of blouse was already not just common but popular in the 1910 era. I happened to have a version dated to 1913 on hand already in my pattern cabinet, bought many years back. I was so happy to not have to hunt for what I needed and just start sewing. My stash saved the day.
My blouse is definitely the more historically accurate of my two pieces. I used a pattern reprint that was directly copied from an original, one of the reasons why I love Past Pattern Company. I also used period appropriate techniques and materials. The skirt is just as period accurate in style and cut, only my material is a polyester blend made to look like a nubby linen or fine crepe. Then, I had to adapt that famous Simplicity Titanic-inspired pattern to be more 1913 accurate. My hidden closure system hides a modern zipper in the skirt, too. I’m only half ashamed over my modern updates because they make historical dressing so darn convenient and no of them are obvious to see. I’m not that much of a purist to look down on either piece. I LOVE wearing them both equally – apart or together. Comparing the skirt against the blouse is a tough call. With all of the true antique additions and hand sewing time I invested, as well as the greater versatility it provides (I can pair it with my modern skinny jeans) I have to prefer the blouse!
The blouse’s pattern was quite easy to follow and understand even though there were very limited instructions to go on. It was offered in a size that is too small for my everyday body, but with my corset it would fit. I assumed that the gathers would lend the bust and shoulders to run a bit generous and I was right. However, there is supposed to be excess fabric to create the draping and soft bodice look. It is so freeing to have something so elegant give me such reach room and unrestricted movement! What also helped give this blouse a further air of simplicity was not having any facings. I used old cotton lawn bias tape to cover the edges and finish the inside seams. Now I did counter this ‘shortcut’ by doing hand sewing on everything other than the inner seams, but the beauty and delicacy of this blouse helped the extra effort feel justified to do and very appropriate.
It was so fun to see the way so many different elements came together for this blouse. Firstly, I would like to brag that the pattern called for almost 3 yards of 36” material, yet I made it work with only 1 yard of fabric at 60” width. Then, I only needed to sacrifice a few small scraps from my prized vintage sheer cotton yardage find to use as an overlay. Yet, I think this extra step adds so much depth and complexity to the blouse without changing the colorway or adding another print. The vintage notions I used were special, too, but nothing can beat the antique collar at the neck. I found this collar at the same shop that I bought my hair comb from, so I felt that notion was meant to be part of this outfit. It was the perfect shape and length to match the blouse pattern’s collar and had an attachment base as if it had never been used before, so I couldn’t be happier to give it a proper space to shine for the first time. The collar is 1910 era in the way it has a fine cotton bobbinet as its base, and the lace seems to have been handmade by someone insanely talented. I love the opportunity to experience such amazing artistry and fine work that sewing historical clothing presents.
The skirt is everything I wanted for this project. It turned better than how I envisioned and definitely makes me feel as if I have a small part of the fictional Rose’s wardrobe out of the 1997 Titanic film. I knew I had to pull out the iconic Simplicity #8640 from my stash. I used another true antique 1912 reprint from Past Patterns (which I posted here for my “walking suit”) as my basis to create a more period appropriate silhouette with which to true up the lines of the 90’s Simplicity pattern. The most glaring ‘faults’ of the 90’s pattern was its flared, bell-bottomed hem and elastic waist – ugh, I was not keeping either feature.
I looked at the asymmetric front hem skirts as seen in old photographs and fashion illustrations to figure out how to get rid of the front tie gathered hem casing which the Simplicity pattern called for. Then, I drafted pleats into the front, instead, so the fabric falls like a soft waterfall. Finally, I drafted the rear to have a center box pleat which slims the skirt by sweeping the excess back into the waistline…just like what was on Rose’s yellow dress in Titanic! Together, I made my own hybrid pattern for a 1913 skirt that is more elegant and more unique than either pattern intended. This was the most self-drafting that I have yet put into a historical piece and I am pleased with realizing such an accomplishment.
The biggest challenge to sewing the skirt was keeping it lightweight but also opaque. The linen-look is sheer and the light yellow color acted the same as if it was a white. I used a matching yellow lining that I had on hand so as to not dilute the color. The lining has a deep ‘hem’ of the contrast crepe fabric, and that is double layered so as to weigh down the skirt properly. This keeps things opaque from the knees down. Even still, adding two more layers of historical underclothes (slip and bloomers) finally prevented my skirt from either showing my corset or being see through. Whew! I will now know what to expect when I make something in the future out of the 1 ½ yard remnant leftover…I should underline the heck out of it!
Working a fancy hairstyle that could be a both historical and remotely Asian in reference, while also accommodating the hair comb, was my most difficult challenge to my final outfit look, though. Yet, after many failed attempts, I think I perfected my hair in time for our pictures. For my Mulan look, I brought my 1920s hand painted fan and remembered my vintage bar pin to close my cummerbund sash. We chose to take pictures in front of the Chinese pavilion at our local park. Notice the dragons “guarding” the place at each cornice! It was not only yet another cultural reference to honor Mulan but also a way to remember one of Disney’s best side characters of all-time – the spunky red dragon Mushu (voiced by Eddie Murphy). I even splurged on an enameled dragon necklace just because I love Mushu so much – go laugh at his best moments here. It is always the most exciting part of a project to see the last details come to life by styling everything together for having my pictures taken.
Mulan is such a well-loved character to many today, and has a larger-than-life appeal that gives her story a realistic quality. For being a warrior woman of ages past, her character’s life lesson is also easy to emulate – each of us can practice being loyal, brave, and true in our everyday existence! Furthermore, I hope this historical set will not just make you think about the timeless tale of Mulan, but also inspire you to be brave enough to throw in a bit of fantasy and creativity into your wardrobe. It sure took a bit of gumption for me to walk all over busy downtown Chicago dressed like this, but hey – I dress for myself. I did receive some happy comments from passerby’s who appreciated seeing something dreamy and different! After all, it is little things like the spectacle of a great painting, the fantasy of a good story, and the limitless boundaries of imagination which season the human existence with intangible beauty to give life a bit of refreshment and wonder. I love how the 1910 era brings the fine arts into life by merging it with fashion!
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